On July 24 and 25, Paul and I participated in an industry event showcasing the Shenandoah Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area). The two-day event began with a luncheon at Muse Vineyards and ended with a tasting of select wineries from the Shenandoah Valley AVA. Participants enjoyed well-crafted wines, dined on culinary delights prepared by chef Tassie Pippert, and engaged with winemakers to learn what makes this particular AVA unique.
Sally Cowal, co-owner of Muse Vineyards, welcomed participants to the winery as we arrived for the luncheon. Stephanie Pence, co-owner of Brix and Columns Vineyards, and Lee Hartman, winemaker at Bluestone Vineyards, gave the event’s opening remarks to inform us that the Shenandoah Valley AVA was the oldest one in the state of Virginia, and Shenandoah Winery was the AVA’s first winery. Jim and Emma Randel founded it in 1976. The AVA also benefits from conditions that are ideal for growing grapes. Cooler nights and limestone soils produce wines with lower alcohol levels and brighter acidity. In addition, the Shenandoah Valley AVA receives less rainfall than other AVAs in the state; due to the superior quality of the grapes grown in the AVA, many of the state’s wineries source grapes from the Shenandoah Valley AVA.
The afternoon then transitioned to lunch paired with wines from Muse Vineyards. Owners Sally Cowal and Robert Muse introduced the wines as they were paired with each course. It should be noted that all foods presented during the event were prepared with locally-sourced products. The luncheon’s first course began with a lovely pate served atop a bed of lettuce dotted with radish slices and slivers of red onions. Muse’s 2021 Rose Nebbiolo was partnered with this dish, and its notes of rose petals and grapefruit proved to be the perfect pairing. Quiche Lorraine followed, and this was served beside the fuller-bodied 2020 Rousanne. Dessert included a rich chocolate brownie with chocolate or vanilla ice cream from South Mountain Creamery. This decadent dessert was paired with Muse’s Cabernet Franc from the 2016 vintage. Raspberry notes from the wine provided a perfect duet with the chocolate delight.
A tasting of sparkling wines followed lunch, and Joy Ting, Research Enologist and Exchange Coordinator at Virginia Winemakers Research Exchange led a panel discussion with winemakers or owners who presented their sparkling wines to the group. These included Lee Hartman from Bluestone Vineyard, Loretta Briedé of Briedé Family Vineyards and Robert Muse of Muse Vineyards. Lee Hartman observed that crafting sparkling wines was the “nerdiest level of winemaking,” and anyone familiar with the méthode champenoise would probably agree with this assessment. Hartman further offered that the Shenandoah Valley AVA was conducive for quality sparkling wines due to the AVA’s climate, which resulted in fresh and refreshing bubbly. The most interesting sparkling wine was the 2017 Sparkling from Briedé Family Vineyards. It was crafted from the Cayuga grape, a hybrid variety that seemed more prevalent at wine festivals many years ago. However, Briedé Family Vineyards has brought the Cayuga grape to a much higher quality. Their sparkling wine featured whiffs of fresh pair and citrus followed by a bright palate and refreshing acidity. Loretta Briedé explained that she and her husband Paul were committed to organic methods to showcase the untapped potential of hybrid grapes, including Cayuga and red varieties such as Marquette and Arandell.
The day’s final event was also its highlight—-a four-course dinner prepared by Emmy-winning chef Tassie Pippert, the producer and host of Un-wine’d on PBS. The dinner was hosted by Brix and Columns Vineyards owners Stephanie and Steve Pence at their lovely home. Appetizers included deviled eggs topped with pickled mustard seeds and a slice of smoky bacon, and pastry shells stuffed with grilled chicken, avocado, and salsa. The 2017 Blanc de Blancs from Bluestone Vineyards provided a refreshing accompaniment to these tasty starters.
The first course featured scallops with asparagus, grits, and a prosciutto chip served beside Burgundian-styled 2019 Chardonnay from Brix and Columns Vineyards. The rich textures of this course matched perfectly with the fuller-bodied Chardonnay.
The next course was a salad of mixed greens, nuts, berries, and local cheese partnered with the 2017 Viognier with Barren Ridge Vineyards. The Viognier’s tropical fruit flavors played well with the berries which accented the salad, and its honeyed texture provided a rounder yet fruity palate.
The main course, though, was the stunner. Tenderloin of beef was topped with a local cherry sauce and served beside roasted potatoes and green beans. This course was paired with the 2017 Houndstooth from Bluestone Vineyard. The cherry sauce allowed the Bordeaux-style blend to shine with its blackberry, raspberry, and dried herb components.
The dessert course included a dark chocolate bourbon cheesecake. Tassie Pippert provided an answer for wine lovers wondering how to branch out beyond dessert or port-style wines with decadent sweets. Pippert selected the 2017 Petit Verdot from the Winery at Kindred Pointe to pair with this decadent cheesecake.
Alas, all good things must come to an end, and that included our first day of celebrating the Shenandoah Valley AVA. However, there will be a second part to this post so stay tuned for a summary of Day 2. In the meantime, plan your celebration of the Shenandoah Valley AVA to visit these and other regional wineries. Please mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!
We would like to Thank all the partners who made this media tour possible:
Shenandoah County Tourism
Rockingham County Tourism
Virginia Wine Marketing Office
Seven Bends Spirits Tours
Muse Vineyards
Brix & Columns Vineyards
Bluestone Vineyard
Vicki Ruckman, Owner, The Virginia Farmhouse
Stephanie Pence, Co-owner, Brix & Columns Vineyards
Lee Hartman, Winemaker, Bluestone Vineyard