Author: Warren

Wine and Photography at Catoctin Creek

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We continue to gradually add more wineries to our “visits” list, and Catoctin Creek Winery brings our total to 128. As readers may know, we attended the WBC 11 conference that was recently held in Charlottesville, and we met Jim Hanna, owner and winemaker at Catoctin Creek Winery, at the conference. To be more exact, we met Jim at the Monticello tasting event that was held at the historic Monticello residence. Jim was one of the winemakers who participated in the tasting, and we determined to pay Jim a visit at his tasting room to find out more about both the owner/winemaker and the wines.

On a scorching hot day, we met Jim Hanna at his home in Loudoun County to chat with him and to sample his wines. His vineyard and tasting room are all located on his personal property, and the tasting room is located in the basement of his home. Jim started a vineyard four years ago with a small planting of Viognier. However, Jim quickly realized that just managing a vineyard was itself a full-time, challenging job. Having just retired from a career with the World Bank, Hanna wanted to pursue other passions that included winemaking and photography. With these goals in mind, he opted to buy fruit from established vineyards so that he could pay full attention to the skill of winemaking. Therefore, all grapes that are used by Catoctin Creek Winery are grown at either Breaux Vineyards or Fabbioli Cellars, and Jim Hanna plays an active role to monitor the progress of grapes as they evolve in the vineyards. And who are Hanna’s teachers in the school of winemaking? Professors Dave Collins, former winemaker at Breaux Vineyards and now at Big Cork Vineyards, and Doug Fabbioli of Fabbioli Cellars consult with Jim Hanna to produce quality wines that bear the label, Catoctin Creek Winery.

Jim Hanna began marketing his own wines in the spring of this year, and they are tasted in the basement of his home. A basement, you might ask? Words like moldy, dank, and dark might come to mind; however, Jim converted this space into an environmentally controlled facility that is actually quite comfortable. Given his small production level, now at 200 cases, it actually serves his needs quite well. A small room to the right of the tasting bar serves as a barrel room, and the twelve French oak barrels house wines from the 2008 through the 2010 vintages. Converting this space into a small tasting/barrel storage facility allows Hanna to keep overhead costs at a minimum; therefore, he can devote time and resources to his main focus—the production of quality wines.


So what about the wines? Four wines were available for tasting, and these included a 2010 Vidal Blanc, 2009 Cabernet Franc, 2009 Syrah and 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2010 Vidal Blanc was our immediate favorite, and it presented tropical fruit characteristics with a refreshing minerality. Done in stainless steel, it is also bone dry and therefore quite versatile; serve on its own or with foods that might pair with a dry Riesling. We also enjoyed this one at the Monticello tasting event as did a blogger from California who ordered a case to be shipped out to his home! Of the red wines, we both preferred the 2009 Cabernet Franc with its notes of plum, dark cherry, and black pepper. Soft tannins made for an accessible, elegant pour.


Future changes at Catoctin Creek involve the other two red wines—the very peppery 2009 Syrah and the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon. True to his commitment to crafting quality wines, Hanna will change the future lineup of wines and phase out the Syrah with a Malbec. The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, which earned a medal for Hanna, will give way to a Bordeaux (or Meritage) blend.

As we swirled, sniffed and sipped, Jim continued to present his philosophy on winemaking. Among his many skills, Jim is also an expert photographer who sees winemaking as an artistic craft that is constantly being perfected; as the photographer captures a perspective in the camera, so too does the winemaker with grapes. The winemaker’s point of view is captured in the bottle much like the photographer’s is preserved in digital format. Therefore, Jim will continue to produce small quantities of wine that reflect his own winemaking philosophy in much the same way that pictures present his artistic philosophy. Sounds too serious? Actually, for Jim Hanna, this is all about “keeping it fun”. After we sampled his wines and viewed his photographs, we can conclude that Jim Hanna is having a blast. Light-hearted and with a sense of purpose Jim Hanna and Catoctin Creek Winery are well positioned to experience further success.

While Paul and Jim continued to chat about photography, I enjoyed another sample of the Cabernet Franc (and wondered what I did with that Kodak Insta-matic from 1975 as I was certain that it needed more flash cubes!) We will continue to follow the developments at Catoctin Creek Winery, but readers should be certain to sample Jim Hanna’s current releases. Just remember to mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you.

Wine Blogger Conference Impressions Part II

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So I’ll conclude my wrap up of the WBD 11 conference here with this shorter post that will focus on break-out sessions, presentations and the awards dinner.

Break Out Sessions:
A number of break out sessions were available for bloggers to attend. We attended the sessions on millenials and wine, drinking local, and the future of blogging. Of these, I found the drinking local conference most interesting and useful for our purposes. The session was moderated by Frank Morgan of Drink What You Like, and panelists included Lenn Thompson of New York Cork Report, Remy Charest, blogger at The Wine Case in Canada, and Washington Post critic Dave McIntyre. McIntyre defined drink local as “a story that is just beginning.” If this is the case, then bloggers do play a critical role in the whole drink local movement. When we began our own blog six years ago, we were one of a handful of blogs writing about Virginia wine. We opted for a drink local focus because, although we both enjoyed wines from around the world, Virginia wines seemed less likely to be featured in the wine media, traditional or online. As the other 46 states continue to develop their own wine industries, bloggers will continue to play a key role in the process. After all, there is little to indicate that the established industry resources will regularly feature non-traditional wine regions. Other topics included the issue of price and local wines with McIntyre noting that if a local wine earns the same accolades as a wine from France or California, then the matter of price should be a non-issue.

The session on millennials and wine was probably the session that least held my attention. A basic summary of this session seemed to be that millennials like to be engaged and entertained and are more likely tune out information they deem to be boring or useless. No tasting notes or references to terroir for them. And f-bombs are okay with them. I’m not so sure that I bought any of this, but then again I’m closer to 50 years of age than 25. I was once 20-something with a short attention span, so I understood the gist of what I heard. However, I did come away with a conclusion that the millennials are unencumbered by elitist attitudes toward wine and thus more likely that boomers to try wines from other regions. I do think that it is a more open-minded generation. And I don’t think dropping f-bombs is necessary to grab their attention.

Paul attended the future of blogging session on Sunday morning. I was able to sneak in a bit later after grabbing some breakfast. This session was blogger led and supposed to be about the Present and Future of wine blogging. The first part was a discussion about how Twitter is used and the roll of Facebook in wine blogging. There was technical talk but the discussion really revolved around basically three bloggers discussing how the wine blogging community could come together and help change things in the wine world..like the use of certain enclosures. Before we knew it, the session was over. If it had continued, I’m sure we would have gotten to some more substantive topics. I actually think the conference should have more sessions like this one…more time for bloggers to talk about what is relevant to us. Either way, it was a good time to hear other bloggers talking about what they are so passionate about.

Presentations:
The Ignite presentations were given by bloggers, and these ranged from infomercial to entertaining to controversial. My favorite was given by ECoastWines.com who gave an excellent comparison of east coast wine regions to those on the American west coast and Bordeaux. The most controversial presentation was one that attempted to debunk the cork shortage issue and asserted that plastic or screw cap enclosures are actually rather harmful to both wine and drinker. From our own experiences with enclosures, we still prefer cork but do not mind the screw caps. The plastic enclosure? Not so much. If we have to dump a bad bottle of wine, it is usually one that had been sealed with a plastic cork.

Awards Dinner:
This event accomplished two things: 1) it showcased Virginia and its history as a wine producing region, and 2) it recognized bloggers for jobs well-done. Part of the showcasing included featuring locally grown food with locally produced wines, and I do have to admit that a couple of the food and wine pairings were a bit curious. For example, the corn chowder with Virginia rieslings were not as successful as the duck pate paired with the Horton Sparkling Viognier. I’m not sure how Virginia rieslings even made the menu, but I will acknowledge that the Lovingston Petit Manseng was the bright star in the lineup. The dessert pairings which featured local cheeses partnered with the Gray Ghost Adieu and the Rockbridge V d’or were quite solid.

Before the dinner, bloggers were awarded for excellent work. Nominees included Virginia’s own Swirl Sip Snark! Winners included the New York Cork Report, Fermentation, Enobytes, and Vinography. Congratulations to these outstanding writers.

Al and Cheryl Kellert from Gray Ghost Vineyards

Jen Breaux Blosser and Chris Blosser from Breaux Vineyards

Conclusion:
All in all, this was a positive experience for us. This was our first blogger’s conference, and we came away with renewed energy to continue to support local wine. We met lots of bloggers from all over, and we learned that their experiences were likewise quite positive. The heat? Not much to do about it except deal with it. Conferences? We heard some complaints about lack of content at this event, and that might be worth revisiting for next year’s organizers. For example, with this year’s advice given by keynoters Jancis Robinson and Eric Asimov still fresh in our minds, a writers’ workshop might be useful. Wines? Overall, the feedback by those who actually tasted lots of Virginia wine was positive; this has been acknowledged by Virginia winemakers with whom we chatted during and after the conference. Were all of the wines excellent? No, but that has to be expected regardless of wherever the conferences are held. We concur with Frank Morgan at Drink What You Like who commented on one blog’s rather negative post—for those who left their hotel rooms and actually participated in the events with an open mind, there was much to learn and experience. Would we consider attending another blogger’s conference? Absolutely! And to close, another thank you to Annette, Amy and Mary Catherine of the Virginia Wine Board for a job well done!

The Virginia Wine Blogger Clique

Impressions On the Wine Bloggers Conference 2011

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Paul and I attended the 2011 Wine Bloggers Conference held in Charlottesville.  Wine bloggers, winemakers, and other industry people from around the world came to the conference to talk wine, pour wine, and appreciate wine.  Along the way, bloggers got the opportunity to hear words of advice from industry experts as well as from each other.  I will post a summary of the conference and my impressions of it in a two part post. Today’s post will feature keynote addresses and important events that allowed bloggers to interact with each other, with winemakers, and of course, wine

Keynotes
If there was an official start of the 2011 Wine Bloggers Conference, it was delivered on Friday by keynote speaker and wine industry legend, Jancis Robinson.  After an amusing recap of her storied three-decades long career in the wine writing business, Robinson offered advice to bloggers: 1) be more investigative; 2) be more creative; 3) fine tune the writing and use the Economist magazine as a stylistic model; 4) date what you write; 5) be accurate; 6) be authentic, and 7) try to write for a more international community.  Some of these tips seemed to concur with Saturday’s keynote address given by New York Times wine critic Eric Asimov who likewise encouraged bloggers to be more investigative and creative.  In fact, Asimov advised bloggers to eschew posts that present tasting notes other than to describe wines as either sweet or savory.  Like Robinson, Asimov offered accuracy and authenticity as critical assets to quality blogging.

We certainly internalized and reflected upon these critical pieces of advise from these renowned voices in the wine writing field.  It certainly is very easy to become too comfortable with a known formula for topics and blog posts especially with the hectic realities of day to day living (like jobs, for example)!  However, Paul and I used the days after the conference to brainstorm a list of topics that are outside of our usual focus on winery visits.  We may even plan to revive our Extra Pour feature that presented lengthier articles and required more investigation and research.  However, I’m not sure about abandoning tasting notes in our posts.  For us these notes present our sensory experience with wines and how they matched with food.  Why? When I read reviews of wines, either on blogs or traditional media, I like to read the tasting notes. How do these palates compare to mine? If the review features a wine that I’ve already tasted, did I get similar characteristics? Were my own taste buds off? What are other nuances that I should be able to detect?  In other words, I consider the tasting notes part of the educational experience both for my readers and myself.

Interactions
Wine Tastings: In my opinion, these offered the best opportunities for bloggers to interact with each other, wine makers and other industry people about the one subject we all enjoy—wine.

1) Speed Tastings: Two of these were conducted, and the first one was held on Friday evening before we all went out to Monticello for a tasting of Virginia wines.  The Friday session featured white wines from around the world including Virginia, and the second session was held on Saturday before the awards dinner.  The second session presented red wines.  The pace of these was certainly rapid with five minutes given for each winery to present its wine to tasters who than frantically tweeted their impressions.  Despite the pace, we were able to compare notes with other bloggers.  I don’t remember how many wines were tasted, but the whole thing lasted for almost an hour.  Needless to say, I did lots of spitting.  I do recall enjoying a bubbly from Gloria Ferrer and a Pinot Noir from King Estate in Oregon.  I allowed myself to swallow a sip of those before reluctantly hitting the dump bucket.

2) Monticello Dinner and Tasting: Mother Nature intruded on this Friday evening event and delivered a 100+ degree scorcher.  Heat and humidity was definitely an issue both for tasters and winemakers who had to present their wines in less than optimal conditions.  At least 30 Virginia winemakers were on hand to pour one white wine and one red wine for guests. Tasters seemed to be in the mood to try white wines, and in conversations with other bloggers who had never tried Virginia wines, Virginia Viogniers seemed to excel.  One blogger noted the aromatic nature of Virginia white wines; another applauded the array of Viognier styles with each seeming to be well-crafted.  We made the round of white wines first then enjoyed small portions of food that included cheese grits with shrimp, fried green tomatoes, and crab cakes.  The heat did make some sippers leery of trying red wines, but those who did commented on the solid Bordeaux-style wines; however, the most buzz was generated around the Pinot Noir from Ankida Ridge.  In fact, wine experts Richard Leahy and Dave McIntyre both gave me a thumbs up when I asked their opinions about it.  One blogger from Oregon did also mention this one as a favorite of the Virginia reds.  How did they all respond to the heat?  I’m from New Orleans, so I felt like a fish in water (literally), and I’m able to roll with this kind of weather.  I did ask one blogger from British Columbia how she fared in weather that had to be foreign to her, and she replied, “I just dealt with it.  I’m here to experience local wines and talk to other wine bloggers about wine.  I’m not sitting in the hotel room because it’s hot.”

 

3) The Other 46 tasting: I was surprised that more wineries from other states did not participate in this, and I was even more surprised that most bloggers did not attend.  With an increasing focus on drinking beyond West Coast and Western Europe, I expected this session to be heavily attended.  To be honest, this was conducted after the Monticello event, so some bloggers may have been heat fatigued.  However, the heat did not seem to dampen the enthusiasm for private parties that occurred at the same time.  For me, this was a chance to try wines from Indiana, Missouri, Ohio, Texas, and Maryland.  Several of us left with bottles of Missouri bubbly, Missouri Norton, and a very nice Missouri Vignole.  I was also surprised by a Texas Tempranillo and a dry Riesling from Ohio.  At the end of the session, a table of us Virginia bloggers were joined by a winemaker from Canada, a blogger from Vermont, a representative of Boordy Winery in Maryland, and Jen Breaux Blosser from Breaux Vineyards to chat about wine and the different varieties and styles offered by the various states.

4) Winery Visits: This was held on Saturday afternoon, and bloggers boarded different busses each destined for at least two Virginia wineries in the Charlottesville area.  Our particular bus (bus 4 rocked with DrinkWhatYouLike, Swirl Sip Snark, Cellar Blog, and Breaux Vineyards) headed for newly opened Pippin Hill Farm and Veritas Vineyard and Winery.  We were particularly impressed with Pippin Hill, and its gorgeous setting prompted more than one blogger to snap as many pictures as possible.  Wines included a Chardonnay, a Viognier, a Rose and a Blended Red.  I’ll spare the details about the wines for a future post, but I will say that the wines were all well received as I spotted bloggers leaving with bottles.  What may have helped to sell the wines were food pairings offered with each wine sample.  Winery chef Amalia Scattena prepared a plate of seared scallops, chicken salad wrapped in grape leaves, and a muffin topped with frosting and a drizzle of chambourcin.  I would have stayed longer just for more of the scallops and Chardonnay!  From Pippin Hill we then boarded the bus and headed to Veritas Vineyard and Winery where we were directed to the tank room.  It was deliciously cold down there too!  Here winemaker Emily Pelton and her father, Stephen, gave us a vertical of Veritas Cabernet Franc starting back to the 2002 vintage and Petit Verdot.  This session ended with a sneak sample of the upcoming Petit Manseng.  We were then offered lunch in the upstairs dining room with a complete tasting of current releases provided in a private tasting room.  Comments from the group?  The white wines seemed to earn the most accolades with one blogger from New York suggesting that Virginia had given her a new appreciation for Chardonnay (lest we all think that Virginia only makes Viognier, of course).  Petit Verdot seemed to trump Cabernet Franc, too.

 

So what to conclude from these interactions?  In regard to Virginia wine, the feedback that we received was largely favorable.  Another blogger from Ohio summed up her perceptions in this way,”Virginia wines are clean and well made.  I didn’t like everything that I tasted, but I liked a lot of what I tasted.”  Fair enough.  We also heard admiring comments about the extensive support offered by the state government and the well-organized efforts to promote Virginia wines.  Dedication of winemakers was also noted; if anything, the weekend’s hot weather gave many bloggers an appreciation for the area’s challenges in making quality wines.  

In regard to other bloggers, I was impressed with the number of folks who made an effort to participate in every program offered at the event.  They were not daunted by the heat or the sometimes hectic pacing.  I was also impressed with their open-mindedness toward Virginia wines; I must admit that I was a bit nervous as to how west coast palates would receive Virginia wines.  However, a San Diego blogger extolled the virtues of Virginia reds, especially the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon from Keswick Vineyards.  It was unfortunate, then, that a handful of bloggers who opted not to participate in these events complained about the lack of interaction between bloggers and winemakers, squawked about the heat as though anyone could do anything about it, and snubbed Virginia wines.  These complaints were usually tweeted from the comforts of their hotel room or the hotel lobby.  

For brevity’s sake, I will end this post here but conclude my impressions in another post.  Before I sign off, though, Paul and I cannot thank the Virginia Wine Board, headed by Annette Boyd, enough for planning this conference.  They did an amazing job pulling all of this together.  Until next time, happy sipping from Virginia Wine Time.

Hot Days and Cool Wines at Willowcroft

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Our post about Big Cork Vineyard mentioned that winemaker Dave Collins began his career at Willowcroft Farm Vineyards, and we thought it would appropriate to visit the site where Collins perfected his winemaking talents. On a hot and humid day, we visited Loudoun County’s oldest winery, Willowcroft Farm Vineyards.

Winemaker Lew Parker opened Willowcroft Farm Vineyards to the public in 1984. At the time, it was the only winery in operation in Loudoun County; today, there are over 30 wineries in the region with more to scheduled to open. Today’s newer wineries feature state of the art facilities and tasting rooms; however, Willowcroft has maintained its rustic appeal and continues to taste in its renovated barn which pre-dates the Civil War. Once in the air-conditioned tasting room, we were ready to sample with a continued focus on summer wines. On a hot, muggy day, who can blame us?

The white wines that we sampled ranged from very dry and crisp to sweet; all were appropriate for picnics and fireworks. The 2009 Chardonnay Cold Steel was crisp and clean with apple and pear notes. Refreshing too! Nice on its own but should pair well with shellfish and other seafood. The 2010 Albarino was similarly dry with a noted crispness thanks to stainless steel aging. Fruity Peach notes and flavors with a cooling minerality were noted. Again, not only nice on its own but also food friendly. Sweeter offerings included the floral 2010 Riesling Vidal Blanc; its 1.6% residual sugar elevated its apple and pear flavors to present a fruity wine. Even sweeter was the 2010 Traminette which boasts a 3.7% residual sugar level. Floral notes with pineapple and spice flavors should please those who prefer sweeter wines; in fact, our friend Michael Tyler came to mind when we sampled this one. Dessert wines should not be overlooked especially with fruit tarts or cheesecakes on the menu, and the 2009 Claire with its honeysuckle and apricot notes should provide a perfect way to end a summer dinner party. The Claire is made from late harvest Petit Manseng and blended with Riesling and Muscat Ottonel.

Grilled burgers on the grill? The lighter-bodied 2009 Fitzrada’s Red might be an option. A blend of Merlot, Chambourcin and Cabernet Sauvignon, we found it to be a fruity pour full of bright berry flavors. White wine lovers might enjoy a glass of this one as an alternative, especially with burgers or other grilled fare on the dinner table.

We ended our tasting at Willowcroft Farm Winery and opted to share a glass of the 2009 Chardonnay Cold Steel. It proved to be the right choice as relaxed at a shaded table in the old barn. Plan to celebrate summer with a visit to Willowcroft Farm Vineyards, and be sure to mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you.

Big Plans at Big Cork

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On Tuesday, June 28, Virginia Wine Time attended an event that welcomed heralded winemaker Dave Collins, formerly at Breaux Vineyards, to upstart winery Big Cork Vineyards in Maryland. Others in attendance include Kevin Atticks and Regina McCarthy of the Maryland Wineries Association, Dave McIntyre, wine critic for the Washington Post, and Erika and Kirsten, bloggers for Cellar Blog. Owners Randy and Jennifer Thompson hosted the event at the Big Cork Vineyard.

Fans of Breaux Vineyards were surprised to learn this past spring that Dave Collins would be leaving the winery after 14 years of winemaking at Breaux Vineyards. In fact, since Breaux Vineyards began operations, Collins was its only winemaker. However, the opportunities and challenges associated with a new vineyard and winery beckoned Collins to join the Big Cork effort. The implications of the move will go beyond Big Cork; the Maryland wine industry, like Virginia, has grown dramatically in the past several years. With growth comes the increased expectation that quality will also increase, and adding Collins to the Big Cork team will certainly raise the bar in that regard.

The event to introduce Collins as winemaker at Big Cork began in the newly planted vineyard. Randy Thompson welcomed guests as they arrived to the vineyard and greeted them with a glass of wine (of course). I chatted with Thompson for quite a while, and I can attest to his enthusiasm for this endeavor. The vineyard itself is actually part of 100 acres of property owned by Thompson and his family. He now has 22 of those acres planted in vines, and varieties include all of the Bordeaux red grapes, syrah, barbera, nebbiolo, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, viognier, and albarino will be planted next year. Plans to expand plantings are also underway to reach a goal of 30 acres planted in vines. Randy also intends to go as “green” as possible in the vineyard and has already planted kestrel stations so that the flying predators can control vermin in the vineyard, and propane herbicides will be used to maintain weed control. Why propane? Thompson’s business expertise is in the propane industry, and apparently heated propane can be safely used in the garden (or vineyard) to rid it of unwanted weeds. Of course, the question that I asked next was, “Why did you want to get into the tricky and difficult business of winemaking?” Thompson loves wine; in particular, local wine. Like many local wine lovers, Randy excitedly sees a craft that is only getting better over time, and he wants to contribute to that industry. While surveying his own family-held property, Randy noted that farming was always part of the land’s tradition, and he believed that planting a vineyard should be part of the process.

Thompson turned his attention to the guest of honor, Dave Collins, once all invited attendees had arrived. A toast to honor Collins and Big Cork was offered, and we were all invited to the Thompson home for heavy hors d’oeuvres and wine. Jennifer Thompson greeted us and led us to the kitchen where a buffet was arranged. Windows in the home allowed guests to gaze upon the mountainside landscape with the budding vineyard in clear view. The Thompson plan to eventually rent the home as a guest facility, and the breathtaking views (and wines) would certainly be an attraction. As we sipped and dined, we were able to chat with Dave Collins about operating a new vineyard and winery in an industry that is still fairly young. Collins reminded us that he got his start in the wine business when the Virginia industry was still in its infancy; in fact, he apprenticed under Lew Parker at Willowcroft Vineyards in the 1980s. From there he took the helm as winemaker at Breaux Vineyards when it began its operation in the 1990s. Big Cork Vineyards is not that far from Breaux Vineyards, so as far as Collins is concerned the micro-climates are fairly similar, and helping to start a new venture is within his realm of experience.

Speaking of wine, when will Big Cork open to the general public? The plan is to have wine in the bottle by summer or fall of 2012. Wines will be produced from grapes purchased from a local vineyard in Washington County, Maryland. From the estate vineyard, the goal is to produce 1000 cases from the 2012 vintage. Releases will include merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and viognier. Does Collins have any predictions about the first vintage? “You can’t tell your child in the womb that it is going to be an architect,” replied Collins.

We are certain that Dave Collins will bring his excellent architectural skills to the winemaking at Big Cork Vineyards. Industry insiders Kevin Atticks and Regina were likewise enthused about the potential for Big Cork Vineyards with Collins at the helm. We will return to monitor the progress as it unfolds, and we eagerly await the first pours from Big Cork Vineyards. As the delightful evening came to a close we bid our farewells to Dave Collins as well as to Randy and Jennifer Thompson. We left feeling confident that this team has the energy, enthusiasm and experience necessary to continue the drive toward excellence that is the ultimate goal of the Maryland wine industry.

Wines To Celebrate Summer

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With summer officially under way, we continue our focus on wine to enjoy during the season. This past weekend our quest took us to Paradise Springs Winery, the only winery in Fairfax County. This also was our first visit since the dedication of the new tasting room; although Paul was on hand for the celebration, I was not able to attend. So our visit had two purposes—to scout out summer pours and to check out the new tasting facility.

The new tasting room is indeed spacious and elegant. It was hard for me to believe that tastings were once conducted in the small cottage on the historic property. From the tasting room, the barrel room was in clear view thanks to a windowed wall that divides the two facilities. Our immediate intent, though, was to taste wines and to ascertain which would best refresh on a warm summer’s day. Tasting associate Corima skillfully guided us through our tasting as we began to swirl, sniff and sip.

A trio of wines made the cut for our summer sipper designations. How exactly do we define a “summer sipper?” From our own tastes, we tend to prefer fruitier wines that are very dry or off-dry and best served very cold. We also look for versatility—a nice summer wine should be enjoyable on its own or with a range of foods. With these factors in mind, we tasted away and concluded that three wines from Paradise Springs Winery were indeed summer sippers. They were:

2009 Petit Manseng: 100% varietal and aged in stainless steel with some time minimal time in French and Acacia oak barrels. Very dry but fruit forward with aromas of orange peel; of the three listed here possessed the weightiest mouth feel. Serve with creamy cheeses and a fruit plate or with a seafood entrée.

2009 Sommet Blanc: A blend of Vidal Blanc, Traminete, Viognier, Chardonnay and Riesling. Less than ½% residual sugar but very fruity with melon and stone fruit elements. No oak aging here. Serve to enjoy on its own but can pair nicely with light cheeses or picnic fare. A crabcake may not be out of the question!

2010 Nana’s Rose: Made from 100% Merlot and very dry. My favorite of the trio. Done in the dry French style, it was rich with ripe strawberry aromas and flavors with a hint of tart cherry in the mouth. Roses are the ultimate in versatility and pair with just about anything and every palate. (More dry roses in Virginia, please!)

With our tasting done, we decided to share a bottle of the 2010 Nana’s Rose with a cheese plate and crackers. This was enjoyed while out on the back patio that included a large fireplace. No need for extra warmth right now, but these accommodations should strike the right note in fall and winter when cooler weather calls for heavier wines and extra heat. We’ll return soon to report on new developments and releases at Paradise Springs Winery; in the meantime, plan a visit to Paradise Spring Winery and mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you.

More Summer Sippers

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So we continue our mission to find the right wines for summer enjoyment. On Sunday, this quest took us to Gray Ghost Vineyards and Rappahannock Cellars.

Gray Ghost Vineyards: We always enjoy catching up with Al and Cheryl Kellert at Gray Ghost Vineyards. We also enjoy sampling their wines! For summer weather, it’s hard to beat the 2010 Vidal Blanc which recently garnered 93 points at the 2011 Los Angeles International Wine and Spirits Competition. I got a whiff of banana and melon with this slightly sweeter pour; lovely on its own, it could also be paired with picnic fare or spicy foods. For those who are thinking ahead to holiday menus (it’s around the corner!), consider the lush 2010 Gewurztraminer with its vibrant floral and pineapple notes. This one always sells out fast and would be fine with Thanksgiving turkey or holiday ham. We were lucky enough to visit Gray Ghost Vineyards on the day that they released the 2010 Cabernet Franc. Full cherry and raspberry aromas and flavors with characteristic spice at the end make for a classic, Old World-style wine. Lighter-bodied and versatile, I’d also consider this one for lighter beef dishes done on the grill but it’s also a contender for herbed turkey and cranberry sauce.

Rappahannock Cellars: The 2010 Viognier was given a pre-release sampling this weekend, and it was lovely. Like the other 2010 whites we’ve tried this year, the full fruit presence was on display with this luscious pour. Melon and stone fruit characteristics made for a flavor-rich wine; some aging in French oak barrels provided very subtle oak nuances and a honeyed texture. Summer brings out the sweeter palates, and the 2009 Noblesse Viognier should prove to be a crowd pleaser at any summer gathering. The Noblesse is actually a blended wine and includes Vidal Blanc, Seyval Blanc and Chardonnay. Fruity and refreshing, our friend and guest blogger Michael Tyler would enjoy a glass of the Noblesse on his deck paired with shellfish and a sunset! Heavier meats done on the grill should partner well with the jammy 2009 Cabernet Franc, a newer release at Rappahannock Cellars.

Summer is the time to favorite Virginia wines with picnics, cookouts and friends. Visit Gray Ghost Vineyards and Rappahannock Cellars to find some of your favorite summer sippers, but be sure to mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you.

Time for Summer Sippers

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With summer’s heat upon us, I find myself gravitating toward more refreshing wines. Virginia produces white and lighter-bodied red wines that are perfect for summer; however, don’t ignore rose wines. Virginia wineries are now producing rose wines that range from bone dry to sweet. In recent tastings, then, we’ve been focused on wines more appropriate for summer. In this post, we will present our findings at Aspen Dale Winery at the Barn and Breaux Vineyards.

Aspen Dale Winery at the Barn: Winemaker Shay McNeal continues to make solid wines at Aspen Dale at the Barn. Our favorite summer pour here was 2010 Sarah’s Chapeau, a blend of Vidal Blanc (60%) and Sauvignon Blanc (40%). Its floral nose and fruity elements of melon and lemon zest make for a perfect sipper while at the deck or at a summer concert. The 2009 Mary Madeleine is a rose and likewise destined for enjoyment on a hot summer day.

Breaux Vineyards: Paul was able to enjoy his membership benefits which allowed us to taste in the tank room! The folks at Breaux also accommodated my parents; Dad, in particular, was eager to try the wines at Breaux Vineyards. Lots of summer offerings here, too! The 2009 Jolie Blond produced from Seyval Blanc presented grapefruit flavors and a refreshing minerality that mimicked Sauvignon Blanc; in fact, we were able to sample the 2010 Sauvignon Blanc! Made only for members, the 2010 Sauvignon Blanc was all citrus fruit with some grassy notes; acids here were rather muted. My own favorite was the 2009 Viognier with its rich aromatics of honeysuckle and peach. Great for summer seafood dishes like crab cakes, too. Chardonnay lovers may like the steel fermented 2009 Madeleine’s Chardonnay with its pear notes and crisp finish. For those who prefer summer wines on the sweeter side, the slightly sweet 2010 Jennifer’s Jambalaya with its notes of honeysuckle, peach, and orange peel should fit the bill. (Residual sugar is .5%.) We left Breaux with almost two cases of wine. A huge THANKS to Breaux for the wonderful hospitality.

In a note about changes at Breaux Vineyards, we were able to chat with new winemaker David Castano during a previous visit to the winery. David Castano was truly excited to be part of the Breaux team, and I asked him what he found most challenging about making wine in Virginia. His reply? The weather—humidity, persistent rainfall, hurricanes all can create problems for the winemaker; however, he added that experienced winemakers know how to overcome these challenges. This past spring seems to confirm David’s point with constant rain in April and early May and then scorching heat in early June. David Castano brings experience as an oenologist and wine consultant to Breaux Vineyards, and we’re confident that he will continue Breaux’s legacy of producing quality wines.

If your stock of summer wines is running low, visit these wineries to replenish the wine racks. Be sure, though, to mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you.

Countdown To Tranquility

/ Warren / 1 Comment

And three (swirl), two (sniff), one (sip)—that is how to appreciate the 2009 Three2One Cellars Tranquility which made its debut this past Sunday at the an event hosted at the seven acre Tranquility Vineyards owned by Al and Mary Taylor. The 2009 Three2One Cellars Tranquility is the result of collaboration between three winemakers in Loudoun County—Ben Renshaw of 8 Chains North Winery and Vineyards, Clyde Housel of Hiddencroft Vineyards, and Jordan Harris of Tarara Vineyards. However, the event also provided an opportunity for the winemakers to showcase their own wines; in fact, the afternoon started with a flight of wines from the three wineries and culminated with the premiere tasting of the Three2One.

Participants in the event included bloggers (Drink What You Like and Cellar blog) and Virginia wine aficianados, but the most special guests were my parents, Warren and Carolyn, who were up for a visit from New Orleans. We all met at the Landsdowne Resort and then were transported by bus to the Tranquility Vineyard. And what a view greeted us! Rolling mountain landscapes painted green by continuous spring rainfall made for picturesque moments. The tastings were conducted in the vineyard beneath a tent that provided shelter from early sprinkles and then the later bright sunlight. Our first flight began with Ben Renshaw’s lineup of the 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (which actually grew on me as it warmed up a little bit), the refreshing LocoVino, and the 2008 Furnace Mountain Red. We recently visited 8 Chains North, and our favorites remained the LocoVino and the 2008 Furnace Mountain Red. Dad chimed in that his favorite was of this flight was the LocoVino; Mom does not drink wine, but she does have a very perceptive nose. She correctly detected the earthy elements in the 2008 Furnace Mountain Red and noted its tobacco aromas.

Clyde Housel then presented his flight which included the 2009 Traminette, the gold-medal awarded 2008 Cabernet Franc, and the Vitis Rubus, a blend of Raspberry and Chambourcin. The 2009 Traminette and its floral nose beg for summer weather, but a decadent chocolate cake should pair nicely with the Vitis Rubus. Jordan Harris of Tarara Winery conducted the final flight that included the 2009 Nevaeh White, the 2009 Tranquility, and the 2008 Nevaeh Red. The 2009 Nevaeh White was my ultimate white wine of the day; a blend of Viognier and Chardonnay, it was clean and crisp. Paul raved about the bold 2009 Tranquility, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat; buy now but drink later as this one will certainly benefit from time on the wine rack. Dad and I enjoyed the accessible 2009 Nevaeh Red with its rich berry and spicy notes.

Of course, the tasting ended with the 2009 Three2One Cellars Tranquility, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (77%) and Tannat (23%). Renshaw, Housel and Harris worked together as “like minded friends that all believe Tranquility Vineyard is one of the prized terroirs in Virginia. It is a blend of the top two barrels each winery produced from this vineyard in 2009.” Aged 18 months in French and American oak barrels, we all noted dark berries, licorice and tobacco on the nose; blackberry and plum flavors abounded with a nice acidity and lengthier finish. Tannic? Yes, but smoother than expected. Age-worthy? Absolutely. Save for a special occasion and serve with big beef dishes and roasted veggies.

Comradery between the three winemakers was evident throughout the day’s presentations, and an appreciation for the Tranquility Vineyard was quite obvious. Its elevation, rocky soils, and air and water drainage were credited for producing the quality Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat grapes that comprised the blend. Comradery was also on display between tasters who all seemed at ease comparing notes on favorite wines. Grilled fare that included sausage, shrimp, chicken and veggies paired well with the wines, and a troubadour strummed gentle rhythms on a guitar. Before we knew it, it was time to purchase favorite wines and bid adieu to the winemakers who made the event possible. Dad left with a few bottles of favorite white wines, and with a family vacation to the beach looming in the near future, I’ll be sure that these are packed along for the trip!

Be sure to visit the talented winemakers at 8 Chains North Winery and Vineyard, Hiddencroft Vineyards, and Tarara Winery, but mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you.

History Lesson at Philip Carter Winery

/ Warren / Leave a comment

This past Saturday, we attended a vintage Virginia tasting held at Philip Carter Winery to commemorate the 249th anniversary of American wine. Mark Parsons, Director of Hospitality and Operations at the winery, conducted the unique tasting that featured wines from the oldest vineyard sites in the state. These included wines from Williamsburg Winery, Jefferson Vineyards, Philip Carter Winery, Horton Vineyards, and Barboursville Vineyards. The wines were presented in a chronological order to represent their place in history.

With the state’s burgeoning wine industry in full swing, it is very easy to forget that Virginia’s wine making history goes back to the early settlement days when colonial subjects of the Stuart King James I were ordered to plant grape vines that could then be used to make wine. The 2006 Williamsburg Gabriel Archer Reserve, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, is aptly named for the co-captain of the Godspeed; this ship brought English settlers to Virginia in 1607. It was these settlers who would have eventually bore the responsibility to plant and maintain vineyards. Given Archer’s significance to this event, it was the first wine to be poured at the tasting. Next, though, was the 2009 Philip Carter Governor Fauquier; it was in 1763 that Fauquier acknowledged that Virginia wine was being produced at the Carter Plantations on the colony’s northern neck. Off-dry and fruity, this Vidal Blanc was made for a warm spring day.

Third on the list was Jefferson Vineyards’ 2010 Viognier. Thomas Jefferson was most determined to prove that Virginia could produce world-class wines, and this Viognier was crafted from vineyards originally chosen by Jefferson in 1774. He would most certainly be proud of this offering by winemaker Andy Reagan with its fruit-driven nose and palate. Our timeline progressed, though, with red wines, and these began with the 2007 Norton from Horton Vineyards. Named for Richmond’s Dr. Daniel Norton, this storied grape was first made known to the public in 1830 and won international acclaim less than fifty years later. Norton fans should appreciate this offering and just in time for barbeque season! A more traditional Old World style red was presented with the 2006 Barboursville Octagon so named for the octagonal-shaped dining room in Governor Barbour’s mansion. The Barboursville Winery opened in 1976 to bring about the renaissance in the Virginia wine industry. Complex and well integrated, the 2006 Octagon has earned the praises of international wine critics. The 2009 Cleve from Philip Carter Winery ended our history timeline, and it represented the most recent red wine on the tasting sheet. Though the Cleve name recalls the ancestral Carter home of Charles Carter, the Philip Carter Winery represents the continued efforts of Philip Carter Strother to reinvigorate the current vineyard site once known as Stillhouse Vineyards. Within the past three years, steady improvements have been made, and this was evident in the bolder 2009 Cleve with its dark fruit and tobacco aromas.

As we sipped our way through history, Mark Parsons shared with us that plans for the momentous 250th anniversary of American wine making are already underway. Parsons bring to the Carter team an impressive resume that includes stints with Robert Mondavi Winery and the Spier Estate in the Cape Winelands of South Africa. His presentation at the tasting exhibited an expert’s awareness of wine and its place in history; I’m a history teacher, and he earned an A+ in my grade book!

With wine/history class adjourned, Paul and I compared notes on favorites. As is sometime the case, we reached split decisions. I favored the 2009 Governor’s Fauquier and the 2006 Barboursville Octagon. Paul preferred the 2010 Jefferson Viognier and the 2009 Philip Carter Cleve. However, we did reach a concurrent decision at the tasting bar where we both agreed that the 2010 Danielle’s Rose was a winner. We sampled this one after the vintage tasting, and we noted vibrant grapefruit aromas with flavors of strawberry, melon and citrus. A true Rose, it presented a pale pink color most often seen in French Roses—and bone dry, too.

We decided to enjoy a glass of the Rose while outside on the patio. Here we observed reenactors walking about the grounds, and owner Philip Carter Strother was engaged in a round of fencing! Between rounds, Strother warmly greeted us, and we learned that acclaimed winemaker Matthieu Finot is the winery’s master wine consultant and the genius behind the 2010 Danielle’s Rose. Pierre Eggert, also from France, will soon be on board as full-time apprentice and winemaker.

We made certain to purchase our favorite Philip Carter wines before leaving, and we will return soon to sample the release of the 2010 Chardonnay. Plan a day of wine and history at Philip Carter Winery, and mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!