I attended a recent vertical tasting of Petit Manseng at Glen Manor Vineyards on April 27 with wine friends Kathy and her husband Rich, Kenny, and Dan. Featured vintages included 2012, 2013, 2014, and the current release from 2023. A bonus included a tasting of the 2022 Petit Rouge.
Petit Manseng has joined a growing stable of grape varieties that showcase Virginia’s ability to produce world-class wines. Although Petit Manseng may be relatively new to many palates in Virginia, the grape’s history is rooted in southwestern France, where it is harvested as late as December to produce dessert wine. (This article provides a brief history and description of the grape.) My initial experience with Petit Manseng in Virginia was indeed as a dessert wine paired with savory fare. However, its small, thick-skinned berries make it more disease resistant in Virginia’s humid, wetter climate and maintain its acidity. No wonder, then, Virginia winemakers have seized the opportunity to craft Petit Manseng to join the main fare on the dinner table.
I typically serve Petit Manseng with spicy Cajun food due to its lush tropical fruit profile and enough residual sugar to balance the higher acidity and cool the palate. The 2012 vintage confirmed my affinity for Petit Manseng with spicy gumbos and stews. It presented notes of ripe pineapple with generous tropical fruit aromas and a round, ample mouthfeel. The 2013 vintage was notably leaner with a whiff of petrol reminiscent of an aged Riesling. White blossoms and orchard fruit completed this elegant profile. If the 2012 and 2013 vintages provided obvious contrasts, then the 2014 vintage struck all the right notes. It was well-balanced with the hallmark tropical fruit aromas and flavors while maintaining bright acidity. The youngster 2023 Petit Manseng completed the comparative tasting. Its aromas needed some coaxing, but swirling brought out tropical fruit characteristics similar to its older siblings. I enjoyed this one with a bowl of Kelly White’s sancocho, a rustic Caribbean stew loaded with pork, sausage, spices, and topped with sofrito. I added a generous dash of Tabasco sauce; after all, I am from New Orleans.
The comparative tasting allowed us to observe the critical role played by vintage. The conditions for the riper 2012 vintage, for example, were considered normal with near-normal temperatures, low rainfall, and a dry August. However, the 2013 growing season witnessed a wetter spring and summer that turned dry during the critical months of August, September, and October. 1.5% residual sugar was the result of winemaker Jeff White adding a small amount of sweeter late harvest Petit Manseng to balance sugar and acidity. I favored the 2014 vintage Petit Manseng, and that particular year was characterized by a cold winter, wet spring, but a hot, dry summer. A harmony of optimal growing conditions produced an elegant, balanced wine.
Our tasting finished with a sample of the 2022 Petit Rouge, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (75%), Merlot (17%), Nebbiolo (4%), and Petit Verdot (4%). This one had a softer entry on the palate with a kiss of oak at the finish, and the easy-drinking Petit Rouge should prove popular with grilled fare during the summer.
I enjoyed catching up with Kathy, Rich, Kenny, and Dan while discussing the various vintages of Petit Manseng. The day was a classic spring afternoon in Virginia, as fragrant blooms perfumed the air, and a comfortable breeze created a relaxing outdoor experience. Be sure to visit Glen Manor Vineyards to sample the latest releases, including the 2023 Petit Manseng and the 2022 Petit Rouge. Of course, mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you. Oh, I forgot to take more pictures at Glen Manor, so this sophisticated studio shot (insert snark emoji) of the Petit Rouge will have to do for now.
