Wine and Conversation with Stephen Barnard

A weekend trip to the Charlottesville area also coincided with the birthday of Thomas Jefferson. Of course, we had to celebrate the occasion by visiting Virginia wineries located near Jefferson’s home, Monticello. On our list of places to go was Keswick Vineyards, and fortunate for us we met up with award-winning winemaker, Stephen Barnard. Stephen treated us to a tasting of current releases, samples of upcoming releases and in the process gave us his impressions of the tricky 2011 harvest.

Of the current offerings, my favorites was the 2010 Viognier with its honeysuckle and coconut aromas and flavor of apricot; it also offered a heavier mouth-feel thanks to barrel fermentation and aging in neutral French oak barrels for ten months. The 2010 Cabernet Franc was my favorite red with its aromas of violet and mixed red berries; it presented a spicy edge to boot! However, the 2009 Les Vent d’Anges Rives Red should not be ignored. Made from the Syrah grape, its smoky nose and dark fruit flavors should partner well with any thing that moos.

We were interested in 2011 wines, though, and Stephen was more than willing to oblige us with samples of current and upcoming releases from the vintage. Some are already in bottles. One version of a 2011 Rose was made from Cabernet Sauvignon and recalled fruity Spanish-style Roses with abundant red berry flavors. Another version that is now being poured in the tasting room is likewise dry but lighter with bright strawberry and melon flavors. Both presented a refreshing acidity. The 2011 Viognier Signature (which bears the signature of owner Al Schonberg) was similar to the 2010 Reserve; a well-balanced wine, tasters may think that it resembles Viognier produced from France. Rich yet fruity with some coconut aromas, I thought that it was delightful.

Stephen then treated us to several barrel samples. A couple of standouts here would include a big barrel of the 2011 Chardonnay. This was my favorite of the barrel samples. It was creamy, well rounded, and presented a nutty finish. Paul really enjoyed the sample from the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon in American oak. It was fruit forward, with notes of sweet tobacco, cherry and raspberry. This will probably be blended with a barrel of 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon in a French oak barrel. Another interesting barrel sample came from the 2011 Norton in new American oak. Paul is not a big fan of Norton but enjoyed the fruity nature of this wine. Blueberry really came through. With the chance to try these barrel samples, we can see there are some great wines to come from Keswick.

So what was Barnard’s take on the 2011 growing season? “I think it was a good thing for winemaking in Virginia. The 2011 wines will present more acidity and more finesse than what is evident in the 2010 wines.” Stephen’s comments seem to represent a trend in opinions from winemakers across the state. Was it a troublesome season? Yes. Will it be impossible to make quality wines? No. Much of this will have to do with vineyard location, of course. However, the winemaker’s diligence and skill will also play a role. We were very pleased with the 2011 samples that we tasted at Keswick Vineyards.

As we left Keswick Vineyards, we spied a Thomas Jefferson impersonator in period clothing and telltale red ponytail. We are sure that the original Mr. Jefferson would approve of the wines at Keswick Vineyards. Be sure to visit Keswick Vineyards, and remember to mention that you read about the wines at Virginia Wine Time.

More Hitmakers From Virginia

I recently posted about Virginia wines earning solid scores from Wine Spectator magazine, and I can report that Wine Enthusiast has likewise given impressive scores to several Virginia red wines. Annefield Vineyards, Bogati Bodega Winery, Keswick Vineyards, Lovingston Winery, Potomac Point Vineyard and Winery, and Veramar Vineyard produced the wines that are featured in this month’s issue.

Potomac Point 2009 Richland Reserve Heritage Bordeaux-style Red Blend (Virginia)-Pungent dark char amidst firm black plum on this Virginia Bordeaux blend brings to mind flavors of smoked meats and strong black coffee. Full bodied and masculine in profile, it’s quite tannic, yet concentrated enough to handle it well. — A.I. (12/1/2011) — 86



Veramar 2009 Estate Club Merlot (Virginia)-Warm and spicy on the nose and palate, this Virginia Merlot boasts a sour cherry aroma combined with hints of gingersnap cookie and ripe bramble. Ample and rich with slightly stewed black fruit notes, the palate is bathed in waves of anise and cinnamon that linger on the finish. — A.I. (12/1/2011) — 86



Veramar 2009 Estate Club Ameritage Red Blend (Virginia)-While soft and ripe on the nose and palate with loads of soft red fruit and hints of mocha and milk chocolate, this Virginia Ameritage doesn’t have a lot of structure, but its smooth, warm style is still eager to please. — A.I. (12/1/2011) — 86



Veramar 2008 Estate Club Cabernet Sauvignon (Virginia)-Ripe and rich on the nose with a harmonious black fruit and sweet vanilla bean aroma, this Virginia Cab is clean and pure with a remarkably pristine fruit profile. Bright and fresh with balanced acidity and a nicely concentrated midpalate. — A.I. (12/1/2011) — 86



Annefield Vineyards 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Virginia)-Aromas of espresso and burnt biscotti entice on this dark yet elegant Cab. On the palate, fresh violets linger amidst layers of ripe black fruit, smoke and char towards a stout, moderately tannic finish. Quite pleasant now, but could improve with 3–5 years of bottle aging. — A.I. (12/1/2011) — 87



Bogati 2009 Collection I Bordeaux-style Red Blend (Virginia)-Sweet red cherry fruit melds with whiffs of graham cracker crumb and leather on this ripe, full bodied red from Bogati. There’s a thin vein of green that trails throughout, but the palate is nicely structured with a dose of warm pepper notes and mouthcoating tannins on the finish. — A.I. (12/1/2011) — 86



Lovingston 2008 Josie’s Knoll Estate Reserve Bordeaux-style Red Blend (Monticello)-Lush, ripe blueberries and plums meld into hints of dark chocolate and lavender on Lovingston Estate’s lovely Josie’s Knoll Estate Reserve. It seems a bit soft on entry, yet bright acidity and smooth, furry tannins give the black fruit palate substance and style. — A.I. (12/1/2011) — 89



Keswick Vineyards 2009 Merlot (Monticello)-Hints of anise, black pepper and toasted coconut make this dark, smoky Merlot a bit exotic and unexpected. Full-bodied with a concentrated yet vibrant black fruit palate, it ends with flair on a rather tropical coconut finish. — A.I. (12/1/2011) — 87



Lovingston 2008 Josie’s Knoll Merlot (Monticello)-Intensely aromatic with notes of sweet pomegranate and fresh violets, Lovingston’s standard label Josie’s Knoll is soft and a tad sweet on entry with a ripe black cherry juice note. Hints of fresh herbs on the midpalate combine with grippy tannins on the finish, adding a dose of style and structure. — A.I. (12/1/2011) — 86

Do non-believers in Virginia wines ever challenge you to prove that the state makes great wines? Don’t suffer through the experience. Tell them to read some of the industry magazines, or even better, refer them to Virginia Wine Time. They just need to be educated on the matter.

Visit the outstanding wineries that are mentioned in this post, and be sure to mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!