Back on the Monticello Trail: Item #3

So third on our agenda was to revisit wineries that were first timers for us last year: Blenheim Vineyards, Sugarleaf Vineyards, and Pollak Vineyards.

Since our last visit to Blenheim Vineyards, Kirsty Harmon has taken the reins as winemaker. Kirsty personally guided us through the wine tasting, and along the way we got to chat with Kirsty about her visions for Blenheim’s future. Of the white wines, Paul and I both place our gold star next to the 2008 Chardonnay. This crisp Chardonnay gives the impression of a stainless steel-fermented wine; however, this Chardonnay is indeed done in oak barrels—French, American, and Hungarian. How was this achieved? Portions of Chardonnay from each barrel were blended together to present flavors of apples and pears with a subtle lemon on the finish. Not to be missed, though, is the 2008 Viognier with its peachy aromas and flavors with some white pepper noted, too. Another crisp pour, the 2008 Viognier is a blend of Viognier fermented in oak barrels (40% from French, American and Hungarian oak).

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Paul and I split decisions with the red wines. Paul’s star was awarded to the 2008 Seven Oaks Merlot; he noted full, rich cherry flavors; “fruity with a smooth finish” were Paul’s exact words. Aging in French oak did indeed give this 2008 Merlot a silky finish. My own gold star was awarded to the 2008 Blenheim Farm Cabernet Franc . Full cherry and pepper flavors with some earthy notes were also on display here with a nice acidity to boot. A fuller-bodied wine, it provided a lengthier finish.

As we sampled the 2008 offerings, we did observe a fruit-forward approach to making these wines, and Kirsty does admit to embracing this style of winemaking. A protégé of noted winemaker Gabriele Rausse, Kirsty’s wines are ready to drink now, and they could be enjoyed with food or simply on their own. Other changes include the labels which also reflect Kirsty’s artistic input and the use of screw cap enclosures instead of corks. Ten acres of vines now include Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot; however, Kirsty likes a challenge and has planted Pinot Noir. Virginia’s climate is usually not kind to Pinot Noir, but Kirsty relishes the chance to make quality wine from this fickle varietal.

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Kirsty finished our visit to Blenheim Vineyards with a brief tour of the barrel room located beneath the tasting room. Small and immaculate describe the barrel room and quite cool to provide optimum conditions for fermenting wines. Kirsty described to us her commitment to making limited quantities of wine that also presented the highest quality possible; after our tasting, we believe that she has reached her goal.

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Of course, we were hungry and eager to eat—light fare including cubed chicken tossed with pasta and herbs, and Swiss cheese with crackers awaited in the car. Now that Blenheim’s tasting room is open to the public, we decided to enjoy lunch and a mountain view from the lofty, spacious tasting room. What wine did we enjoy? The 2008 Chardonnay.

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After lunch, we purchased wine to bring home, and bid our farewells to Kirsty; we also thanked her for being such a gracious hostess and promised to return soon. So what about Surgarleaf Vineyards and Pollak Vineyards? Item #3 continues on our next post. In the meantime, visit Blenheim Vineyards, and mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you.

Upcoming Wine Cruises

Here is some information about some upcoming wine cruises. Read to the end for a special offer for Virginia Wine Time readers!

-Philip Carter Winery, in the running for Virginia’s Favorite Winery, will be hosting an Oceania Mediterranean cruise doing the same itinerary as this year’s Pearmund Cruise, except in reverse (sailing Barcelona to Rome). The cruise departs Barcelona on April 4, 2010. The 10-day cruise includes the French Riviera (with optional excursions to Avignon, Chateuneuf-du-Pope, wineries of St. Tropez, and a visit to the ancient village of Grimaud), Monte Carlo (with optional excursion to Old Nice and a fabulous wine cellar for a cheese-and-wine pairing), and the amazingly-beautiful Amalfi Coast of Italy (with a spectacular optional excursion to Chianti to include a multi-course Italian lunch/feast paired with numerous Italian wines including Chianti Classico). Vintner and lawyer Philip Strothers and his wife Danielle will be hosting the cruise. There will be 2 wine tastings on board, a food-and-wine pairing dinner, and cocktail reception. Because Philip is both a lawyer who specializes in representing wineries in Virginia, and himself the owner of a Virginia winery, Philip also will add a unique dimension to the cruise. Philip will be hosting a couple of lectures to provide insight to our guests about what is involved in starting a winery in Virginia and also speak about the history of Virginia wine making. It promises to be a spectacular experience. What is most amazing is the price. It starts at $2,699 per person. This rate includes roundtrip airfare from Dulles and many other major gateway cities. It also includes prepaid gratuities (worth $250 per stateroom), a $200 per stateroom spa credit, and all the onboard activities (wine tastings, food-and-wine pairing dinner, cocktail receptions, and lectures). To book requires a deposit of $750 per person, with no further payment due until 90 days prior to departure. Additional information about this cruise is located here. $700 of the deposit is refundable if cancelled for any reason at least one day prior to final payment.

-Veramar Vineyard & Winery. We’re thrilled that one of Virginia’s most established wineries, Veramar, will also be hosting an Oceania Mediterranean cruise. The Veramar cruise is also 10 days, and sails June 17-27, 2010, from Rome to Barcelona. The itinerary is different than Philip Carter’s itinerary, however, and is concentrated in France with several ports in Italy. It will visit unique ports such as Cinque Terre (Italy); Cannes, France; Sanary-sur-Mer, France; and Sete, France. Anyone who has met the Bogaty family who owns Veramar knows that they are in for a real treat if they sail on this cruise. Aside from the fact that Justin Bogaty, the family wine maker, makes awesome wines, Jim, Della, and Justin are all delightful, warm people who will be sailing onboard the cruise. They will be hosting onboard wine tastings, cocktail receptions, and a food-and-wine pairing dinner for their guests. They also will be leading some extraordinary wine-themed excursions to some of the finest wine regions in Europe, to include Chateuneauf-du-Pope. The rate on this cruise, especially for June on an upscale cruise line like Oceania, is unbeatable at $2,999 per person, which also includes roundtrip airfare from Dulles and other major gateways. It also includes prepaid gratuities (worth $250 per stateroom), and all onboard activities (wine tastings, food-and-wine pairing dinner, cocktail receptions, etc.). To book requires a deposit of $750 per person, with no further payment due until 90 days prior to departure. Information about the Veramar cruise is located here. $700 of the deposit is refundable if cancelled for any reason at least one day prior to final payment.

-Pearmund Cellars, Winery at LaGrange & Vint Hill Craft Winery. Chris & Lisa Pearmund will be hosting this wine cruise aboard Uniworld’s River Royale, a 134-guest river boat sailing the Rhone River through the Burgundy & Provence region of France. This promises to be a very rewarding and unique experience for guests. River boats are all about the destination. They truly are floating hotels, and dock right in the heart of the cities and towns they visit. Guests will enjoy long ports stays, often late into the night or early morning. On this cruise, a shore excursion is included in every port of call. Bicycles are also available for use by guests free of charge, and complimentary wine is served at dinner. This cruise will feature optional shore excursions to wineries of the Burgundy & Provence region, along with included onboard wine tastings and cocktail reception with Chris and Lisa. The cruise sails June 27-July 4, 2010. The rate begins at $2,799 per person, but when booked by September 30th, the cruise line is offering a $150 per person discount. To book requires a deposit of $200 per person, with no further payment due until 90 days prior to departure. Additional information about this cruise is located here.

In appreciation, for anyone who newly books with us during the month of August (through August 31st) and who states they are booking because they read about the wine cruises on Virginia Wine Time, we will offer an additional $50 per stateroom ($25 per person) shipboard amenity credit on any one of the above three wine cruises. Shipboard credit is like spending cash onboard the cruise. These cruises can only be booked through Cruise Holidays of Alexandria. Our number is 703-706-0011.

Item #2: Visit Newer Wineries

So back on the Monticello Trail, and this time we were interested in sampling the wares at newer wineries. For this item on the agenda, we added Flying Fox Vineyard and Mountfair Vineyards.

Flying Fox Vineyard has operated as a winery for the last three years, so it’s still a relative newbie. The tasting room was quite nice, and the tasting associate was friendly and knowledgeable about the wines. After many years of growing grapes, they have moved into producing their own wines. Three white wines were offered for tasting, and we reached a split decision on the gold star awards. I favored the 2007 Chardonnay which was fermented in stainless steel to present a crisp wine. Nice citrus aromas were noted here with flavors of apples and pears. On a warm, sultry summer day, the 2007 Chardonnay could be the perfect sipper. Paul preferred the 2008 Viognier with its peach and melon characteristics and dry finish. This, too, was fermented in stainless steel tanks.

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I did think that the red wines at Flying Fox were a bit stronger, and I particularly enjoyed the 2006 Cabernet Franc. Raspberry and cherry were evident on the nose with hints of dried herbs and black pepper with complementary flavors presented in the mouth. A small blending of Merlot rounded out this Cabernet Franc. Not to be outdone was the 2006 Petit Verdot with its blackberry and black cherry characteristics; the tasting noted use the term “concentrated”, and I do indeed concur. I noted some vanilla at the end with a lengthier finish to boot.

As we swirled and sipped, a rain shower announced its arrival outdoors. With our tasting done, we decided to gaze up at the summer shower from the dry comfort of the tasting room. We opted to enjoy a generous cheese plate offered by the winery which we then paired with the 2006 Cabernet Franc. I particularly enjoyed the Gorgonzola cheese while Paul munched on the white cheddar.

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Alas, the summer shower did indeed end, and with lunch and wine consumed it was time to move on. With a lovely rainbow guiding the way, we made our way to Mountfair Vineyard. Mountfair just opened with the past six months, and the focus is blended red wines from Bordeaux varietals. We were fortunate enough to meet one of the owners, Chris Yordy. He conducted our tasting. Three wines were offered for tasting, and all presented different blending proportions of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. I allowed Paul to award the gold star here, and this he presented to the Merlot-based 2007 Engagement. (The blending proportions here are 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Petit Verdot.) Paul’s descriptors included “intense cherry”, “spice”, and “nice tannins” to suggest a complex yet accessible red wine. I thought it still tasted a little young, so “engage” now with a purchase but enjoy a bit later with a favorite beef dish. A juicier pour is the 2007 Wooloomooloo (an Aboriginal term). The predominant varietal is Petit Verdot: so, expect a denser color with a more layered fruit structure.

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Mountfair’s tasting room is still a work in progress; however, it’s the wines that count, and the wines here are very good. Paul was impressed with Engagement and purchased a bottle that now rests comfortably on his wine rack.

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The list of Virginia wineries grows every day it seems, and that just keeps us busier and busier as we continue to sample Vriginia’s finest. Be sure to visit Flying Fox Vineyard and Mountfair Vineyards, and mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you.

Summertime Along The Monticello Trail

Summertime allows us the opportunity to visit lots of wineries especially those that are most distant from home. We made wise use of our time staying in the Charlottesville area, and we had a few items on our agenda. One item was to interview winemakers for an upcoming feature on Viognier, and these included Michael Shaps of Virginia Wineworks, Andy Reagan of Jefferson Vineyards, and Matthieu Finot of King Family. Second on our “to do” list was to visit newer wineries in the Monticello area, and this we did accomplish—Flying Fox Vineyard and Montfair Vineyard were indeed visited by the “dynamic duo”. Item #3 was to re-visit certain wineries that were first visits the last time around to see how things were progressing—Blenheim Vineyards, Sugarleaf Vineyards, and PollakVineyards were placed on the calendar. Next on the list? Visits to established wineries in the area just because we wanted to—Afton Mountain Vineyards, Kluge Estate Winery and Vineyard, White Hall Vineyard, Cardinal Point Vineyards, and Barboursville Vineyards. Final item—enjoy some down time in the lovely Monticello area. Did we accomplish all of this? Yes, but over a period of five days; so, we have lots to write about for the next several posts!

viognierSo let’s start with Item #1 and our experiences with Viognier. I’ll keep this one brief, because we are planning an extra feature on Virginia Wine Time in the upcoming months which will focus on Viognier. Why Viognier? From our observation, Viognier appears to be the flagship white varietal for Virginia, and this is based on our reading of reviews from wine critics, national and international awards heaped upon Virginia Viogniers, and formal and informal conversations with winemakers. Therefore, we plan to offer a more detailed article on Viognier for the Fall; look for a history of Viognier in Virginia to appear in the spring issue of Edible Chesapeake, too. (Yours truly will be writing that article!)

Our first interview and Viognier tasting was done courtesy of renowned winemaker, Michael Shaps. Michael’s winemaking credentials are well known and quite extensive. His winemaking skills were honed in France, and Michael has lent his considerable talents to several Virginia wineries including King Family. Michael graciously agreed to meet with us on a Friday at Virginia Wineworks, a day that the tasting room is not usually open for tasting. In fact, Michael was already quite busy with the bottling of white wine for First Colony Winery. We had never seen this highly mechanized process in action, so we were quite mesmerized by the whole affair. Before long, though, Michael treated us to a sampling of his two Viognier offerings—the Virginia Wineworks White and the premium Shaps label. The Wineworks White was a blend of Viognier and Vidal Blanc with less that 1% residual sugar, and it proved to be a very nice, uncomplicated sipper. Nice to share with a friend on the deck, serve as an aperitif, or pair with a chicken and cream sauce dish. Our favorite, though, was the Michael Shaps Viognier, and this one we’ve already described on our short video. The Shaps Viognier is indeed premium—aromatic, intense, and full-bodied. It’s done in stainless steel; however, the juice is allowed to soak on the skins to give this Viognier the weightiness often associated with an oak-aged Viognier. Pour to accompany a shellfish dish and enjoy!

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While Michael Shaps prefers to ferment his premium Viognier in stainless steel, Andy Regan of Jefferson Vineyards opts for a mix of fermentation in neutral French oak barrels and stainless steel tanks. We sampled Jefferson Vineyards’ 2008 Viognier and concurred with the tasting notes—floral and apricot aromas with complimentary flavors in the mouth framed in a nice acidic structure. I confessed to Andy that I always keep a bottle of the Jefferson Viognier on my wine rack, and I left the winery with a bottle of the 2008 offering. Andy shared with me his own favorite recipe to pair with this lush Viognier—grilled bacon-wrapped tuna steaks topped with homemade salsa. Of course, hearing the details made me hungry, but I left with another great menu suggestion to partner with this lovely Viognier.

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Matthieu Finot of King Family Vineyards presented yet another treatment of Viognier. Finot was trained as a winemaker in Burgundy and brings a classic Old World style to King Family’s Viognier (and Chardonnay, too) and also prefers stainless steel fermentation with some time in neutral French oak barrels. The result? The 2008 offering presented the familiar honeysuckle and stone fruit aromas and flavors; in particular, I noted white peaches. Nice acidic structure and a fuller body, too. Finot likes to sip this one on its own, especially in the summer, or with a shellfish dish. (And yes, I added a bottle of this one to my wine collection, too! )

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Three excellent Viogniers offered to us by three outstanding winemakers—what a treat! Needless to say, we learned lots from the three winemakers as we swirled and sipped, but we’ll reserve these extras for our later article. (Didn’t I say this post would be short? Oh well!) In the meantime, be sure to sample Virginia Viogniers to find out what the buzz is all about; start with these offerings from Virginia Wineworks, Jefferson Vineyards, and King Family Vineyards. Of course, mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!