Category Archives: Winemakers

Not So Fast

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That is my response to those who are ready to dismiss the upcoming 2011 vintage. We hope to do a more comprehensive post on the 2011 harvest in the coming weeks; however, Boxwood Winery did offer a glimmer of the season’s potential. Executive Vice President Rachel Martin invited us out to the winery to sample some barrel samples of developing red wines from the 2011 harvest, and we were indeed quite impressed with what we tasted.

Readers may know that the 2011 grape growing season started with all of the potential of the heralded 2007 and 2010 seasons; however, Hurricane Irene ushered in weeks of rain throughout the state that gave vineyard managers and winemakers nightmares. Rain around harvest time is not usually appreciated in the vineyards, and this past September it came down in torrents. However, some areas of the state received more rain than others; lighter rainfall and diligent vineyard practices may have saved the grapes in many parts of Virginia.

This was clearly the case at Boxwood Vineyard. On a crisp, sunny fall day we visited Rachel Martin to sample some of the 2011 wines from the barrel. For their vineyard sites, September rainfall and little sunshine raised concerns of botrytis and sour rot; therefore, she opted for selective harvesting this season. Clusters that contained over 50% rot were not collected, and salvageable clusters were sorted berry by berry. “Painstaking” was the term used by Rachel to describe the process that consumed endless hours on harvest days. The result? Lower yields but clean fruit.

Rachel guided us to the barrel cave where we were treated to barrel samples from recently harvested 2011 grapes; in fact, the wines were at malolactic fermentation. The Merlot presented a deep hue in the glass to suggest good extraction with excellent fruit on the nose; likewise, the Cabernet Franc was clean with characteristic pepper notes. The Petit Verdot, though, was by far the star of the afternoon. Inky with concentrated plum flavors, it seems destined to shine in future releases. Nothing that we sampled suggested diluted colors or flavors, and we detected no vegetal notes to indicate lack of ripening.

Our time at Boxwood Winery concluded with samples of the upcoming 2010 releases now in tanks. The 2010 Topiary will be a blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot; aromas of pepper and dried herbs dominated along with notes of raspberry and cherry to suggest an earthier blend. The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon will be not be blended; I noted characteristics of black fruit and tobacco with a pleasant whiff of violet. An addition to the Boxwood lineup will be the Trellis, a fruit forward table wine that blends Merlot and Malbec. This one should be prove to be popular as we both found it to be accessible and easy to drink either alone or with a meal.

So do not accept blanket dismissals of the 2011 harvest as fact for the entire state. We’ll do our best to keep readers posted. In the meantime, plan a visit to Boxwood Winery, and mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!

2009 Petit Verdot from Gadino

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Many of you know that my favorite wine of the moment is petit verdot. Petit verdot is used all over the state as a blending grape. While many winemakers do an excellent job of using it as a blending grape, I think a stand alone petit verdot is the way to go. I’ve had several stand alone petit verdots from Virginia and I do think it will become a more prominent grape but until more wineries create a stand alone, I’ll continue to enjoy those that have seen the light.

Last spring Stephanie at Gadino Cellars gave us a barrel sample of the 2009 Petit Verdot. At that time we thought it was showing very well and anticipated its release. Last weekend we visited Gadino Cellars and Derek presented us with a preview bottle of the 2009 Petit Verdot. Oh how we love getting to taste wines ahead of their release. The 2009 Petit Verdot from Gadino Cellars will be released this weekend.

Last night for dinner we had lamb chops, roasted veggies, and red potatoes. What better wine to pair with this meal than the 2009 Petit Verdot. On the nose we noted dark plum, dark cherry, crushed dried herbs, and tobacco. In the mouth we noted similar characteristics of dark plum, dark cherry, and a creamy caramel finish. Warren detected a mocha component to this more complex wine. It paired beautifully with our meal.

Tasting this wine made me think about the 2008 reds. I wondered if I was enamored with 2008 reds or was I enamored with characteristics of 2009 reds. Such a dilemma. We decided we need to taste more 2009 reds. Either way, we completely enjoyed this 2009 Petit Verdot from Gadino Cellars. We suggest you get your bottle soon and enjoy this 2009 Petit Verdot. And you know, if we don’t like something, we don’t write about it. If you visit Gadino Cellars anytime soon, be sure to tell them Virginia Wine Time sent you!

Virginia Wine Month Celebration

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Last night we attended a reception to celebrate Virginia Wine Month and Virginia Wine Tourism. There were many winery dignitaries in attendance as well as lots of media folks. The guest of honor was Governor Bob McDonnell. After introductions and fanfare, the governor spoke. He spoke about the wine industry in Virginia and how successful it’s been in the last few years. He noted that the industry will have great growth in the future especially with Donald Trump getting into the game. Of course the focus of the evening was wine and we got the chance to taste some of the best Virginia wine.

Breaux Vineyards poured the 2010 Viognier, 2007 Cabernet Franc Reserve, and the 2005 Nebbiolo. We agreed the winner here was the 2005 Nebbiolo. We noted cherry and raspberry with hints of licorice and tobacco. I really noticed the smooth finish. What a nice wine!

Barboursville Vineyards poured the Viognier Reserve 2010, the Octagon 2007 and the Malvaxia Reserve 2006. Here we really enjoyed the Octagon 2007. Great color, intense tannins, and berry flavors stood out here. We thought of food with this one.

Boxwood Winery poured the Topiary Rose Blend 2010, the Topiary Blend 2009, and the Boxwood Blend 2009. I think the Boxwood Blend 2009 really stood out here. It has a deep, dark color with hints of blackberry, violet, and anise. The tannins would accompany a thick steak really well.

Chatham Vineyards poured the Church Creek Vintner’s Blend (non vintage 2009 and 2010), the Church Creek Cabernet Franc (non vintage 2009 and 2010), and the 2010 Steel Church Creek Chardonnay. I really preferred the 2010 Steel Church Creek Chardonnay. I noted the pear and apple flavors on the nose as well as in the mouth. It had a nice mouth feel even though it spent no time in oak.

The Virginia Wine Board and the Virginia Tourism Corporation put on a wonderful event. We enjoyed the conversation, the wines, and the promotion of Virginia wine. We met some great people that we hadn’t met before. We even got to meet the governor! It was a great way to celebrate Virginia Wine Month. If you haven’t visited any of the wineries that poured at the event, you need to plan a trip to visit them soon. And tell them Virginia Wine Time sent you!


Some of the Virginia Wine Mafia was in attendance!

Civil War Dinner and Virginia Wine

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Continuing our celebration of Virginia Wine Month we attended an amazing dinner on Friday night. We went to the Gadsby’s Tavern Museum for a Civil War dinner paired with Gray Ghost wines. We were treated to a history lesson on the Civil War. We heard the part Gadsby’s Tavern and the Gray Ghost played in the Civil War. We were also treated to some delicious food and wonderful wines. Below is the menu and pictures from the evening.


Appetizer course was served in the Tavern assembly room.


Our history lesson conducted by Gretchen Bulova, Director of the Museum.


Shitake Mushroom soup in an herb broth


More history


Filet of beef wrapped in a puff pastry.


Chocolate charlotte ruse with a custard filling.


Gretchen Bulova, Al and Cheryl Kellert, Amy Payette

We had a wonderful evening enjoying the history, the food and of course the wines. The 2010 Merlot was tasted for the first time and it was wonderful! Gretchen informed us that the Tavern offers Virginia wine all the time. Horton makes two wines with the Gadsby’s Tavern label. She kindly gave us a bottle of each to try. Thank you Gretchen!

Bring Viognier to the Watershed!

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This is exactly what chef Todd Gray accomplished this past Tuesday. I attended a dinner at the acclaimed Todd Gray’s Watershed in Washington, D.C. that featured pairings of seafood with Virginia’s official grape, Viognier. In fact, Virginia Viogniers were the only wines served at the wine dinner except for a surprise red wine poured with the fourth course. Vintages from Tarara Winery, Delaplane Cellars, and Veritas Winery were poured at the wine dinner, and winemaker Jordan Harris and Veritas owner Andrew Pelton were on hand to introduce the wines.

The evening started with a sample of the aromatic 2010 Viogner from Tarara Winery paired with light starters that included fried clams on toast points. Four courses were then served alongside pairings of Viogniers and Viognier blends from the 2008, 2009 and 2010 vintages. The courses were stunning, and I only wish that chef Gray could cook for me every night. The wines were quite nice too, and it was interesting to observe which vintages were the favorites of my tablemates. I will list the courses here and vintages here with a nod toward my particular favorites:

First Course: Curried Pumpkin and Butternut Squash Bisque with Littleneck Clams, Celery Root and Toasted Pumpkin Seeds served with:
Delaplane Cellars Viognier “Maggie’s Vineyard” 2008 and “Honah Lee” 2009
This dish was absolutely divine and my favorite of the evening! The creamy texture of the “Maggie’s” seemed a perfect match for the lush squash soup.

Second Course: Marland Jumbo Lump Crab Cake with Hand Rolled Orechette Pasta with Little Tomatoes and Basil Pesto Butter served with:
Tarara Winery “Nevaeh White” 2009 and 2010
Succulent! That is the only word to describe the crab cake. The tomatoes and their characteristic acidity matched well with both vintages, but I’m a Chardonnay fan and the 2010 vintage presented a blend of 55% Viognier and 45% Chardonnay. The older sibling comprised 70% Viognier and 30% Chardonnay. Guess which one I preferred? (To be honest, I finished both samples!)

Third Course: Pan Roasted East Coast Halibut on Wild Rice Pilaf, Rock Shrimp, Mango and Cilantro Crème Fraiche served with:
Tarara Winery Viognier 2010
Halibut is my favorite white fish, and served atop the wild rice was an extra treat. The 2010 offering from Tarara was classic Virginia—floral aromatics and rich tropical fruit flavors. Perfect with white fish.

Fourth Course: Maple Balsamic Glazed Breast of Mennonite Chicken with Italian Sausage Bread Pudding, String Beans and Black Pepper Chicken Gravy served with:
Tarara Winery Syrah 2007
WOW! More of this from Jordan Harris, please. What a hidden gem! Concentrated dark fruit flavors with spicy elements demanded that I request a second sample. This Syrah will not be for sale to the general public but may serve notice that winemaker Jordan Harris is a serious Rhone ranger! Harris revealed to me his belief that the Virginia climate can be conducive to growing Rhone varieties that include not only Viognier but also Syrah and Mouvedre. Therefore, look for Rhone-style white and red wines at Tarara in the future.

Dessert Course: Warm Sticky Toffee Cake with Coconut Ice Cream and Armagnac Toffee Sauce served with:
Veritas Winery Viognier 2010
A nice way to end the evening. Less than 1% residual sugar makes this Viognier quite versatile. Toffee, caramel, spice—just in time for fall. Also consider this Veritas offering with Thanksgiving turkey.

The lovely evening of food, wine and conversation came to an end. I would like to remind readers that October is Virginia Wine Month, and Todd Gray’s Watershed does feature Virginia wines on the wine list. I hope that he continues this practice and expands the list to include other Virginia wineries. In the meantime, dine at Watershed and request a Virginia wine with your meal. Of course, I encourage readers to visit the wineries mentioned in this post, but please mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you.