A Few Sparklings

On Monday evening we went to Open Kitchen in Falls Church for a sparkling tasting. Open Kitchen has a wine club and since Warren is a member, we are able to take advantage of the opportunities to attend their wine tastings on Monday evenings.

On Monday wine distributor Justin Garza poured a few sparklings and a few other wines. He started with the Kluge Sparkling Brut NV. The bubbles were flowing and we noted strawberry and watermelon. The second sparkling was the Barboursville Brut NV. This one is 90% pinot noir and 10% chardonnay. It was everything we expected but we have to admit it lacked the bubbles the first sparkling presented.

The next wine was the Barboursville Cabernet Franc Reserve 2010. We noted cherry, plum, cedar, and moderate tannins. It’s a perfect red meat wine. The final wine was a surprise that wasn’t on the tasting sheet. Justin poured the Barboursville Rose 2011. We noted strawberry, pineapple, and delightful minerality. We instantly thought of taking this one with us to Wolf Trap concerts.

Have you been to Open Kitchen? If not, you should check them out and maybe join the wine club. If you do, you can join us for wine tastings on Monday evenings. And tell them Virginia Wine Time sent you!

New Direction at Early Mountain Vineyards

We attended the officially opening of Early Mountain Vineyards, formerly known as Sweeley Estate Vineyards, this past Saturday. Owners Steve and Jean Case actually re-launched the winery under the Early Mountain name in June; however, this event marked the official debut of the Early Mountain brand and concept with industry experts, journalists, bloggers and state officials (Governor McDonnell and Todd Haymore) on hand to toast the future of what will be a highly successful venture.


A new focus was clearly displayed from the moment we walked into the renovated tasting room. Adjectives such as open, light, and warm came to mind. The already expansive tasting room was resigned with an open concept in mind, and warm earth and neutral tones lightened the walls. Light poured through windows, and mountain views greeted the eye at every glance. We were escorted to the dining room located to the right of the main entrance, and here too the interior design can be described as open, bright, and inviting. Guests were handed champagne flute filled with sparkling wine from Thibaut-Janisson, and Jean Case warmly greeted us to the event.

The day’s events began with a luncheon that showcased seasonal fare from the local area. These included spicy sausage, smoked salmon, artisanal cheeses, and fresh breads. These were paired with the Early Mountain Pinot Gris 2011 and the Early Mountain Merlot 2008. It was at the luncheon that Jean Case addressed the attendees and filled us in on the Early Mountain concept known as Best of Virginia. Jean revealed a lifelong love of Virginia as well as a lifelong love of wine. She became excited about the state’s growing wine industry and wanted to be a part of it; in particular, Jean wanted to bring the best Virginia wines to consumers. The Best of Virginia, then is an initiative designed to “elevate, celebrate and champion the finest Virginia wine to both consumers and the wine industry” with an ultimate goal of increasing consumer exposure to Virginia wine. Therefore, Early Mountain Vineyards will not only feature their own wines in the tasting room but also other Virginia wines from Ankida Ridge, Barboursville, Breaux Vineyards, Chatham, King Family, Linden, and Thibaut-Janisson. Heading the Early Mountain team of experts to identify the Best of Virginia is sommelier Michelle Gueydan who has worked for celebrity chef John Besh; Gueydan travels the state to identify the top wines in Virginia. These selections then become part of Early Mountain’s wine portfolio, and consumers can then purchase these wines in the tasting room.

After lunch, we were then given a guided tour of the vineyard and barrel room by winemaker Frantz Ventre. Frantz had been the winemaker for Sweeley Estate and therefore has intimate knowledge of the vineyard, its soils and microclimate. We were led to a block of Cabernet Franc that looked ripened and about ready for harvest. It was here that Frantz shared with us the advantages of the site’s red clay and quartz soils, and its location allowed the mountains to protect the vineyard from weather hazards such as heavy rain and hail. Mountain breezes help to regulate temperatures while warding off flying pests that can affect the grapes. We also learned that a goal at Early Mountain Vineyards is to move away from heavy chemical sprays with a complete conversion to bio-dynamic practices and products in the near future.


We were guided from the vineyard to the barrel room where we were treated to a sample of the newly released Chardonnay. As we transitioned from the warm outdoors to the cool climate of the barrel room, the crisp Chardonnay proved to be quite refreshing. In the barrel room, we learned that Early Mountain’s focus will be on smaller production of quality wines (about 3000-4000 cases) as opposed to Sweeley Estates’ emphasis on volume. Both the tank and barrel room were spotlessly clean. As we toured the facility, Jean Case commended the Sweeley’s for dedicating their resources to building a quality winery, including the barrel room and the state-of-the art equipment.


Our tour then led us back to the tasting room where we could then taste wines from the Best portfolio and walk about the tasting room. A sumptuous buffet awaited us with wait staff offering oysters on crackers, salmon slices, and mushrooms on toast points. A market shop featured Best of Virginia wines, gourmet food items, and other wine-related products. As we sipped and snacked, we chatted with other bloggers and industry folks such as Annette Boyd, head of the Virginia Marketing Office, Melissa Harris of Flavor magazine, and Claude DelFosse of DelFosse Vineyards.

We were very pleased with the new direction that is being taken by Early Mountain Vineyards. The unique Best of Virginia concept, a sharper focus in the vineyards, and a quality team of passionate experts headed by Jean Case should steer Early Mountain Vineyards to a bright future. We know that we will return to Early Mountain Vineyards in the near future, but readers may want to visit sooner especially with fall colors on the way. Trust me, the views will be spectacular and more so with a favorite Best wine. Be sure to mention, though, that Virginia Wine Time sent you.

Gray Ghost Harvest

On Sunday we went to Gray Ghost to help harvest the chardonnay grapes. We do this every year and always have a good time. Here are some pictures from the day.

We all gathered very early in the morning.

Al Kellert told us all about the process.

Amy showed us what this year’s T-shirt looked like.

These are the grapes we were harvesting.

Here’s Warren harvesting the grapes.

During a break, Amy reminded us of a few things to remember when harvesting.

Al estimated we brought in more than 10 tons of grapes.

The grapes were put through the de-stemmer.

Then they were fed into the bladder press.

Here’s Al working the bladder press.

When we were all done we had a congratulatory toast.

And this is why we work so hard to harvest the grapes.

Open Kitchen Hosts Naked Mountain Vineyards

On Monday, Open Kitchen, a unique dining venue located in Falls Church, held its weekly wine tasting session, and Naked Mountain Vineyards was the featured winery. Owner Hue-Chan invited us to the wine tasting; of course, we accepted her invitation. In the process, not only did we sample the wines from Naked Mountain Vineyards but we also found out more about the exciting Open Kitchen concept.

Open Kitchen hosts a wine tasting every Monday starting at 5:30 PM, and this particular tasting was held on the breezeway in front of the restaurant. The weekly tasting event is well into its second month with Naked Mountain Vineyards being the first Virginia winery to pour at Open Kitchen. Naked Mountain winemaker Seth Chambers presented four current releases at the well-attended tasting, and these included the Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2008, the Chardonnay/Riesling 2011, Scarlet Oak Red 2006, and the Cabernet Franc 2007. My preferences were the Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2008 with its apple, pear, and butterscotch notes and the smoky Scarlet Oak Red 2006. This blend of Mourvedre and Tannat grapes presented tobacco notes with cherry/raspberry fruit flavors with spicy elements to boot. However, on a hot day it would be hard to resist the Chardonnay/Riesling blend 2011 with its floral nose and pear flavors. Paul enjoyed the Cabernet Franc 2007 and noted aromas of tobacco, raspberry. He savored full berry and earthy flavors in the mouth.

Of course, we are no strangers to Virginia wines and certainly not to Naked Mountain Vineyards. However, we were pleased to meet other tasters who likewise had frequented Virginia wineries. The comments on Virginia wines were all similar—the quality has improved tremendously, and an influx of expert winemakers has brought about this change. We can add that expert winemaking has been the result of growing the right grape varieties in the right vineyard sites. As we chatted about Virginia wines with our table mates, Paul and I availed ourselves to the snack menu and ordered gourmet treats that included skewered chicken served atop freshly made chorizo and a cheese plate of smoked gouda, brie, blue cheese, and olives. Of course, we needed wine to pair with our meal, and our first choice was the Scarlet Oak Red 2006. However, a quick glimpse around the long row of tables revealed that the Scarlet Oak Red was the most popular wine of the event; alas, we were informed that the last bottle of Scarlet Oak Red had been sold. Our next choice? The Cabernet Franc 2007. (We were later told that we bought the last bottle of that one!)

In the midst of our nibbling and sipping, we were able to chat with owner Hue-Chan who opened the Open Kitchen in 2009. Open Kitchen is really more than just a restaurant, and according to the website, “It all started with cookies!” In 2007, Hue Chan wanted to pursue a career in cookie making but ran into a huge obstacle—she could not find an appropriate facility to bake and then sell her cookies. The myriad of laws and regulations that control the food industry turned a seemingly simple pursuit into a headache-inducing problem. Not willing to give up on her dream, Hue-Chan founded the Open Kitchen concept “to provide licensed kitchen facilities for rent on a cost-effective and flexible basis.” It offers a restaurant with a full dinner and wine menu, cooking classes with master chefs, entertainment events and services, and timeshare kitchens for chefs. Hue-Chan also embraces a “local” philosophy, and her kitchen makes full use of local produce; this also includes local wine. In addition to weekly wine tastings that will include other Virginia wineries, Open Kitchen will hold a Wellness at the Winery event at the Winery at la Grange that will include an open field yoga session, a wine tasting and wine country picnic. (This event will be held on September 9, 2012.)

As the sun began to fade, our tasting experience seemed to be at an end; however, winemaker Seth Chambers had a surprise for tasters, and this was a preview sample of the upcoming Birthday Suit, a white wine blend that was created by Chambers to celebrate the one year anniversary of the new owners buying the winery and vineyards. This special blend included Chardonnay, Viognier, and Riesling. I described it as a dry alternative to the Chardonnay/Riesling 2011; it was crisp with lovely pear and melon notes. The Birthday Suit is a limited-production wine, so buy upon release—it will sell out sooner rather than later!

We bid our adieus to Seth Chambers and Hue-Chan, and we know that we will return to Open Kitchen to enjoy the unique experiences there. Be sure to check out the website and reserve your space at Open Kitchen; of course, mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!