Firefly to Light Up the Loudoun Wine Scene

Paul and I attended the soft opening of Firefly Cellars this past weekend. Readers may know that Firefly Cellars was once Hunter’s Run Winery. However, ownership of the property now belongs to Pete and Patty Pierleonardi and their children, Zach and Andrea Zaidi. The family has considerable business experience as owners of Pest Management Service, Inc., and now bring their expertise to Firefly Cellars.

Guests of the event were greeted warmly by the Pierleonardi family in the tasting room, and glasses of the Blanc de Blanc made from white chambourcin grapes were on hand to toast the occasion. The tasting room itself has been completely renovated and captures a rural chic theme.

Live entertainment provided relief from the haunting shrieks from Brood X cicadas, and an impressive menu of food expertly paired with each of the Firefly Cellars’ eleven wines. My favorites included the white blend Illumination paired with spinach and fontina stuffed cremini mushrooms, the fruity 2020 Chardonnay paired with the Virginia scallops and pork belly, and the Petit Verdot paired with the prime beef skewers dipped in blue cheese fondue.

Firefly Cellars also offers airbnb accommodations; in fact, newly weds were the first guests of the airbnb and present at the pre opening event. A swimming pool sweetens the pot for those who are looking for a getaway complete with refreshing swim to finish the day. For those who either opt to stay at the airbnb or wish to stop by Firefly Cellars for a tasting, a private tasting experience can be enjoyed in The Cellar, a European-style wine cellar that is kept at 55 degrees.

I admit to getting excited when I see fireflies light up the summer sky, and I could not help myself from posing in front of the Firefly Cellars’ sign.

We will be certain to return to Firefly Cellars to stay updated on new releases. However, readers may want to enjoy the current lineup of wines sooner rather than later so plan to visit once the winery opens this weekend. Remember to mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!

Reconnecting and a Trip to Williams Gap Vineyard

It does appear that there is a rainbow on the horizon after the Covid storm disrupted our lives. The resulting isolation and then socializing within bubbles may be bursting as vaccines make us all less wary of resuming our pre-Covid lives. Paul and I are now reconnecting with friends who have been seen either through computer screens or messaged via chats. It was therefore a welcome relief to meet up with our friend Erica Johansson, who is also a Virginia wine aficionado. This also gave us the opportunity to reconnect with the Virginia wine trails to discover new (to us in some cases) wineries, and this was the case with a visit to Williams Gap Vineyard.

Readers may want to be aware that many wineries are still by reservations only; however, that was not the case with Williams Gap Vineyard. The two-story tasting room is rustic yet well-appointed, and tastings can be customized to include service from a tasting educator for $20 per person. We selected this option and was expertly guided by Ken, a familiar face in the wine tasting community. Ken has been a wine educator at other Virginia wineries, and he has an extensive knowledge of Virginia wines and the varieties that can thrive in the state. The three of us knew that we were in good hands.

Six wines were available for tasting, and I will say that all were well-crafted. All wines were from the excellent 2019 vintage, and all grapes that produced the wine were estate grown. The Vidal Blanc may surprise some tasters who are more familiar with sweeter productions of this variety—-this one is bone dry and delightful. Lemon zest and a refreshing mineral note made for a refreshing yet elegant wine that will be perfect for summer salads and light cheeses. The White Blend, a mix of 75% Petit Manseng and 25% Vidal Blanc presented notes of chamomile and stone fruit with a rich, fruity palate. The weightier Petit Manseng was all tropical notes with an excellent balance between sugar and acidity.

The tasting transitioned to the red wines, and Ken started us off with the accessible Cabernet Franc. Lovely notes of raspberry, strawberry and spice played well on the palate, and a hint of chocolate added a bit of complexity. If anyone wonders what red wines are appropriate for summer, this Cabernet Franc would be one excellent example. Grilled fare or picnics with charcuterie present menu options, but be prepared to enjoy this one on its own. The Merlot was a bit more jammy with dense cherry and raspberry flavors. Expect a fruity entry and a surprisingly tannic presence in the mouth. It’s never too early to look forward to autumn menus and heartier fare, and the most complex Red Blend should be on the wine rack for cooler seasons. The blend is dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet France and Merlot as sidekicks. Dense plum and currants prevailed on the nose and palate along with a whiff of dried herbs. Tannins are a bit young here so don’t be afraid to let this one age for a bit; however, decant and drink now if you prefer.

As we tasted through our flight of wines, Ken filled us in on Williams Gap story. Virginia wine lovers may recognize the Williams Gap designation from the red blends poured at Delaplane Cellars. Those grapes do indeed come from the Williams Gap Vineyard. Owner Jack Sexton planted the vineyard on the Williams Gap site in 2006 and sold the grapes to area wineries including Delaplane Cellars. Sexton decided that Williams Gap would pursue its own rather recently, and 36 of the 200 acres of Williams Gap property is currently planted with vines. Additional plantings of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc will result in another 14 acres of vines planted. Current case production is 1300, and wine production takes place under the skilled direction of Rob Cox at Paradise Springs. Expect to see a Rosé to be released in June. The tasting room has been open since the end of April.

So with tastings done, we ordered a charcuterie board that included cheeses and baguettes. Our wine of choice was the Cabernet Franc, and the three of us enjoyed catching up and reconnecting. Are you also reconnecting with friends over Virginia wines? Consider meeting up at Williams Gap Vineyards. Please mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!

We Rediscover Cana Vineyards

Paul and I continue to slowly travel the wine trails of Virginia, and our last trek took us to Cana Vineyards. We had not been to Cana in quite a few years, and we learned that the winery is now owned by Lisa and Bryce Petty. They purchased the vineyard and winery from the Bell family in 2018. Co-owners Michelle and Tom Grant are now also part of the Cana team. The Cana facility now includes the expansive Sunset Pavilion which provided for adequate spacing of customers on a very cold afternoon.

Another noted change from our last visit, though, was the improved quality of the wines. I am an unashamed Chardonnay lover, and Cana’s 2019 Chardonnay hit all the right notes for me. It was elegant and well balanced with lovely pear and apple aromas, while the palate was treated to pear and citrus flavors accented with fall spice and a touch of oak. The 2019 Petit Manseng was another success and an example of what this variety can do in Virginia when in the right hands. Fresh tropical notes with a nice, refreshing acidity ended with a dry finish and destined to pair well with any seafood dish. The 2018 Le Mariage, a blend of Bordeaux varieties with Merlot taking the lead, presented a juicy berry entry on the palate followed by a spicy edge on the finish. Remember, 2018 was a very tricky vintage due to lots of rain and not a lot of sunshine in most parts of Virginia; however, a newcomer to Virginia wine would not have been the wiser after sampling this well-crafted blend. Paul’s favorite was the Cabernet Franc produced from the stellar 2017 harvest. Raspberry and tobacco notes melded with cherry flavors to present a rich wine made more complex by barrel-aging for 15 months. If leg of lamb is on the menu, it might be a good idea to have a bottle of this one on the wine rack as a pairing option.

Our tasting experience was enhanced by the expert knowledge of Don, a familiar face to us from previous visits to Cana (and Chrysalis before that!). Don got us up to speed on the various changes at the winery since our last visit which prompted me to inquire about the winemaker responsible for the improvements noted in the wines. He informed us Melanie Natoli assumed the duties of winemaker and vineyard manager in 2015; we then recalled that Melanie studied winemaking at Fabbioli Cellars. We decided it was time to learn more about Melanie, and she agreed to participate in an interview. (Ordinarily, we would arrange to do this in person, but—-covid.) Continue reading to learn more about the very talented Melanie Natoli.

Melanie Natoli
Photo borrowed from the Cana Vineyards website.

1. Why did you decide to switch careers from being in physical therapy to becoming a wine makers?
I followed my heart. When I make big decisions, I go with my gut. Growing up, no one in my family drank, so I found wine later. Hence, it wasn’t my first career choice, but when I found it, I knew it was my path.

 

 

2. Have you found any comparisons between being a physical therapist and a winemaker? Any similar challenges? Rewards?
Good question. They both come from the heart. I’ve always loved science and I chose physical therapy so I could be of service to others. Compassion is rooted in the heart, and so is creative passion for art, winemaking. As a winemaker I still get to connect with people, just in a different way.

3. Why did you decide to become a winemaker in Virginia with its various challenges? Why not someplace like California, for example?
Virginia is where life put me. Virginia is where my love and interest in wine grew. I was close to moving to California and going back to school for a degree in winemaking, but I found/made my own path here and I’m so glad I did. The challenges we face here may cause me to lose a lot of sleep at times, but they’re also what keeps it exciting. There’s always going to be more to learn and I love that.

4. You were awarded Woman Winemaker of the Year at the Women’s International Wine Competition in 2017. Winemaking is still dominated by men, though. Do you think it is still more difficult for women to break into the field and then earn recognition for their achievements?
Sometimes. Starting in this industry as a woman and someone coming in with no experience or connections, I do feel I had to work harder to prove myself, so I have. I’ve had a few interactions that weren’t fair, but I kept my head down, worked harder, and poured myself into my wine. Now I’m proud of what I put in the bottle and I have confidence in my abilities, so that kind of stuff can roll off my back. I’ve only made wine in Virginia, but I have a suspicion the challenge would be greater in other regions. Our industry is young enough that a long history of a good ol boys club wasn’t built. Although there may still be more men working in our industry, the women are here and making their mark. The supportive community of Virginia winemakers is one of the things that makes our region so amazing.

5. What grape varieties do you grow at Cana? Which do you consider to be the flagships at Cana? Do you have plans to expand your portfolio beyond what is currently planted?
Reds: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Norton
Whites: Petit Maseng, Viognier

We have 2 wines that I produce from our estate fruit. The Unite’ Reserve is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. The blend will vary depending on what shines in the vineyard each year. The other estate wine is our Petit Manseng which often has some of the estate Viognier blended in.

We only have 7 acres on the estate, so we also source from some fantastic partner growers. The 2 estate wines have a special place in my heart because I work the vineyard all season, so those wines I craft every step of the way from budbreak to bottle, but I have some other favorites. I’ve been working with Albarino since 2015, my first vintage at Cana, and I’ve had so much fun developing it. And did you think you’d talk to me without hearing about rose’? That is my number one love. If I’m going to be remembered as a winemaker for one thing, I want it to be dry rose’. Right now, we have 2 in our portfolio, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

As far as new wines for the portfolio. I have two new red varietals hitting the bottle in April, so keep an eye out for them at the end of this year. I’d like to bring back Rkatsiteli, and I always want to make more rose’.

6. You have won a trip to a tropical island for a much needed vacation. You can bring three of your favorite Cana wines along on the trip. Which wines and vintages would they be?
I love this one! I also love the idea of a trip to a tropical island, much needed indeed! Since I make 2 rose’s, that’s 2 of the bottles! Because rose’. The 3rd is a tough choice, because I really love my Albarino, but Petit Manseng would be the perfect pairing for somewhere tropical. That’d be a gametime decision, when do I leave? And for vintages, 2019 or 2020. Those are my favorite white vintages so far, because each year I get to dial it in a little better. Although I may go 2017 for the Petit Maseng, I really loved the acid sweetness balance on that bottle.

We know that we will return to Cana Vineyards sooner rather than later. However, if readers get there before we do, please be sure to mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!

Happy New Year!

We have not posted in a while, but rest assured that while we have not really been on the Virginia wine trails, we have indeed been enjoying Virginia wines. We always host a NYE party for friends to ring in the new year with lots of food and wine; however, that was not the case this year for obvious reasons. Paul and I did, though, include Virginia wines in this year’s low key event. We paired Blenheim’s 2019 Gruner Veltliner with Asian slaw and mini crab cakes, and we partnered Beef Vidala (filet mignon topped with crab meat) with Glen Manor’s 2015 Hodder Hill. Our wine racks, though, lacked Virginia bubbles; however, Schramsberg bubbly helped to ring in 2021.

We are hopeful that Virginia Wine Time will be posting more often this year. In the meantime, let us know of new wineries to visit—-we are making a list and checking it twice! Do you plan to visit the wineries mentioned in this post? Please mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!