Richard Leahy Releases Beyond Jefferson’s Vines

Richard Leahy masterfully captures the past, present and future of a wine region that has grown dramatically in recent years. Pour yourself a glass of a favorite Virginia wine and follow Leahy as he tastes his way through Virginia wine country. Wine aficionados at all levels who want to know more about this emerging wine region will find this book to be indispensable.

This was the jacket endorsement that I wrote for Richard Leahy’s newly released book on the Virginia wine industry called Beyond Jefferson’s Vines. Paul and I have logged countless months, days, hours and minutes traveling the state to sample the best (and not so best) wines of Virginia. Therefore, it is with some authority that I can tell you that reading Beyond Jefferson’s Vines is the next best thing to actually traveling the state for yourself. Included in this must-read work is an introduction by fellow critic, Dave McIntyre who advises us all to “to over Thomas Jefferson.” And indeed it may be time to do just that. Leahy gives testimony to an industry that has grown (most importantly) in quality and in quantity within the past decade. The Virginia wine industry has arrived both nationally and even internationally, and while Jefferson helped to give birth to a nation, his attempts at winemaking were absolute failures. It is obvious, then, that the Virginia winemaking has reached heights that Jefferson could only imagine. Time to get over Thomas Jefferson? Absolutely!


On hand to celebrate Leahy’s book releases included industry professionals such as Christopher Parker, a British native and Virginia resident who exports Virginia wines to Great Britain. Bloggers were in attendance and included the duo known as Swirl, Sip, Snark, Frank Morgan of Drink What You Like, and Dezel Quillen of My Vine Spot. John Hagarty, local wine reporter and associate with Rappahanock Cellars was also on hand. And where was the event held? At a Virginia winery, of course. Paradise Springs hosted the event, and we were treated to lunch and wonderful pours from Paradise Springs Winery. Publisher Carlo DeVito paid homage to Leahy’s hard work in producing the book under demanding deadlines; however, Richard seemed unfazed by the stress and demands. I’ve always been impressed by Richard’s easy-going cheerfulness, and as I’ve gotten to know Richard and then reading Beyond, I now know why. Richard has a passion for what he does (and does very well)—the tireless promotion of the local wine industry.



As the release party came to a close, Richard autographed copies of Beyond Jefferson’s Vines for each attendee. However, we had one more treat in store, and that was a barrel tasting conducted by Paradise Springs winemaker, Rob Cox with Richard Leahy as part of the group. I will not hash out the particulars of the barrel tasting, but I will say that the still-fermenting Chardonnay was excellent as was the fruity Petit Manseng that promises to be drier than the current 2010 bottling. The Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat were all from the 2011 harvest, and these all indicated that the 2011 harvest was not a complete disaster. These evolving red wines will be fruitier and lighter bodied (even the Tannat) than the vaunted 2010 counterparts; however, they will be quality wines probably to enjoy while young.

Look for Richard Leahy’s Beyond Jefferson’s Vines wherever books are sold; in fact, copies will be available in some tasting rooms. Of course, pay a visit to Paradise Springs Winery, too. Be sure to mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you.

Out and About in the Rappahannock Area

Two weeks ago we attended a winemaker’s dinner at Marriott Ranch in Hume, Virginia, and the dinner featured wines from Gray Ghost Vineyards. Paul posted the pictures and menu from that lovely event; however, we also used that weekend to visit a couple of wineries in the area. They included Rappahannock Cellars and Sharp Rock Vineyards.

Rappahannock Cellars: Always a treat to sample the wines here. Of the white wines, our favorite was the 2011 Viognier that was fermented in stainless steel and then aged in oak for six months. Paul noted that the alcohol level on this vintage was lower than the 2010 vintage, and perhaps this explains the more accessible even playful nature of this particular Viognier. I noted bright citrus notes and softer aromas of orange and peach. This is certainly a wine to enjoy on its own but could be enjoyed with light fare, shellfish or simple poultry dishes. It should also prove to be quite popular for the spring and summer. Of the reds, I enjoyed the 2010 Noblesse Rouge, a lighter-bodied Bordeaux style wine. Nice cherry aromas with cedar and pepper notes were noted with a hint of vanilla to finish. Paul checked off the bolder 2010 Cabernet Franc as a favorite. We have not tasted many 2010 red wines, but we anticipate releases to rival the heralded 2007 season. This Cabernet Franc may provide a clue as to what to expect. “Jammy” was my primary descriptor, and full raspberry and blackberry fruit characteristics were noted. Spicy elements prevailed on the nose and palate. Definitely a buy now but drink later wine! Oh, and sparkling lovers should look for the release of a sparkling rose this Easter.


Sharp Rock Vineyards: It had been a long time since our last visit to Sharp Rock Vineyards, and winemaker Jimm East greeted us in the tasting room. Two very adorable dogs, of which one was a rescue animal, also welcomed us. The pleasant and unusually warm weather found us enjoying the crisp 2011 Chardonnay. This one is not oaked, and it presented nice pear and apple flavors with a pleasant acidity. We also concurred on our favorite red wine, the 2010 Synergy. A blend of Petit Verdot and Merlot, we observed plum and dark cherry flavors with elements of sweet tobacco and pepper. The tannins were surprisingly smooth for a 2010 vintage; we will be comparing notes on the 2010 red wines now that they are being released. While the Synergy could be enjoyed now, I would not be afraid to keep it on the wine rack for a couple of years. We enjoyed a glass of the Chardonnay and appreciated the view of nearby Old Rag Mountain and the hypnotic gush of the Hughes River. Jimm East joined us for a bit of conversation, and we learned that the 2011 Sauvignon Blanc will soon released. He is also considering a blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc to create a crisp summer sipper. Jimm also shared with us that while the 2011 season was certainly a challenge for him, it was not at all a disaster. He does anticipate that quality wines will indeed be made from the 2011 vintage.



Vacationers may want to consider a stay at Sharp Rock’s bed and breakfast. Two cottages that are part of the Sharp Rock property are available to rent for a relaxing weekend getaway. Bring your hiking boots for a scenic walk and then plan to unwind with a favorite book and a glass of Sharp Rock wine; enjoy besides the babbling Hughes River, and you may just doze off for an afternoon nap.

Now that spring (or early summer) has sprung, get out to these two wineries to sample their latest releases. Be sure to mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you.

Monticello Sweep

Yes, our focus during our latest trek to the Monticello area was sparkling wines; however, we did manage to sneak in a few visits to wineries that weekend. Here were our impressions:

Glass House Winery: This winery has been on our “places to visit” list for a while, and we finally managed to get there this time around. This is our 141 winery visited! Glass House Winery offers a unique tasting experience in a hot house that grows an assortment of tropical plants including banana trees. Our favorite pours included the off-dry 2011 Pinot Gris with its pear and citrus aromas and the smoky 2010 Barbera that presented a whiff of violet and full blackberry flavors. Norton lovers may appreciate the 2010 Meglio del Sesso that is a blend of Norton, Chambourcin and Cabernet Franc. It is then aged with 82% ground chocolate. Needless to say, it is indeed dessert in a bottle. Oh—the fresh bananas are divine! Naturally sweet with a firm texture, they beat anything you will ever buy from the supermarket.



Mountfair Vineyards: Our tasting here began with the two sparklers from Thibaut-Janisson—the current release of the dry Blanc de Chardonnay and the sweeter Fizz. I liked Fizz, but I loved the dry Blanc de Chardonnay with its non-stop racing bubbles, apple notes, and crisp finish. (It also ended being my second favorite sparkling at Sunday’s tasting.) Of course, Mountfair is known for its focus on Bordeaux-style reds, and we favored the 2009 Belated, a bend of Merlot (65%), Cabernet Franc (25%), and Petit Verdot (10%). We noted dark fruit, cedar and sweet tobacco on the nose with plum and spice in the mouth. After our tasting, we enjoyed bubbles and conversation with Ben and Jackie of Mountfair Vineyards. Ben assists with the winemaking, and Jackie does the marketing; they are also married to each other!

Stinson Vineyards: This was our second visit to Stinson, and here we reached split decisions. Paul enjoyed the 2010 Rose with its characteristics of strawberry and dried herbs. It certainly possessed an earthiness that would pair well with gamy cheeses and meats. I preferred the 2010 Chardonnay that presented pear notes and a vanilla finish. We did concur on our choice of red wines and that was the 2010 Cabernet Franc. Nice cherry, raspberry and pepper flavors were evident here with some smoky notes to suggest oak aging.



White Hall Vineyards: An impressive line-up of wines was tasted here with an equally impressive list of price points. Everything that we tasted was under $20. I was eager to taste the 2010 Gerwurztraminer, a gold medal winner at the 2012 Governor’s Cup. I was not disappointed—lovely floral aromas with notes of orange peel led the way to intense flavors of citrus, white pepper and nutmeg. Do not be afraid to warm the glass up a bit with your hands before sipping as the rich aromatics and flavors will only intensify. I’m a proud Chardonnay fan, and the 2008 Chardonnay was an absolute steal at $11.99 per bottle. Apple and pear elements prevailed with hints of vanilla at the finish made for an elegant wine that could be enjoyed on its own or with light fare. Paul added to his Petit Verdot collection and snagged a bottle of the earthy 2009 Petit Verdot that is blended with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. (Between the two of us, we walked out with six bottles of wine.)


Spring is now upon us and daylight is lasting longer, so plan to visit these wineries sometime soon. Enjoy your favorite wine while gazing upon spring blossoms and lasting sunsets, but mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you.

Bloggers Rate Sparkling Wines

Frank Morgan of Drink What You Like planned the second annual tasting of sparkling wines. Last year the event was held at Keswick Vineyards; however, winemaker Andy Reagan of Jefferson Vineyards hosted this year’s tasting. Other bloggers included the team from Swirl, Sip, Snark and Allan Liska from CellarBlog. Pia Mara Finkell, Megan Headley, Anthony from VaPourHouse, and Melissa from Uncork Virginia also loaned their palates to the occasion.

The tasting was done blind and included sparklings from Afton Mountain Vineyards, Barboursville Vineyards, Kluge Estate, Old House Vineyards, Paradise Springs Winery, Prince Michel Vineyard, Thibaut-Janisson Winery, and Veritas Winery. Tasters were asked to use their own rating system to score each sparkling and then to rank them in order of preference. In addition, a Gruet brut from New Mexico was tossed into the ring to create an interesting twist.

So how did the bubbles rate? Before I present the overall list, I will offer my top three rankings:
1. Veritas Scintilla NV
2. Thibaut-Janisson Virginia Sparkling NV
3. Gruet BrutNV

Paul’s top three were as follows:
1. Veritas Scintilla NV
2. Gruet Brut NV
3. Thibaut-Janisson NV

How did our preferences stack up with the rest of the palates in the room (including Andy Reagan!)
1. Gruet Brut
2. Veritas Scintilla
3. Thibaut-Janisson Virginia Sparkling
4. Thibaut Janisson Fizz
5. Horton Sparkling Viognier And Kluge Blanc de Blanc 2008 (tied)
7. Barboursville Brut
8. Prince Michel Blanc de Noir
9. Paradise Springs Apres Sparkling Viognier
10. Afton Mountain Tete di Cuvee 2008
11. Old House Petillante Brut

The surprise was that the Gruet from New Mexico seemed to best the Virginia sparklers; however, the Veritas Scintilla earned a number of first place rankings, so it showed quite well as did the Thibaut-Janisson Virginia Sparkling. The bottom scorer, the Old House Petillante Brut, was the event’s unanimous last place finisher. Off characteristics abounded with this one.

After the taste-off of sparklings, Andy Reagan treated us all to a sample of his upcoming Pinot Gris as well as the current release, the 2010 Pinot Gris. He also sprung for gourmet deli platters that included fresh pepperoni, mozzarella cheese, and a most divine pate paired with crunchy cornichons. Andy also provided us with a full tasting of current releases as well as barrel samples; however, we will be attending a vertical meritage tasting at Jefferson in April, and I will save my notes for that special occasion. I will say, though, that both the 2008 Meritage and 2009 Meritage were showing quite well. The 2010 Chardonnay Reserve likewise remains quite solid.

Be sure to check out sparkling wines coming out of Virginia wineries, and do stop by Jefferson Vineyards for a tasting of Andy Reagan’s quality wines. Of course, mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you.