Author: Warren

Wine and Conversation with Stephen Barnard

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A weekend trip to the Charlottesville area also coincided with the birthday of Thomas Jefferson. Of course, we had to celebrate the occasion by visiting Virginia wineries located near Jefferson’s home, Monticello. On our list of places to go was Keswick Vineyards, and fortunate for us we met up with award-winning winemaker, Stephen Barnard. Stephen treated us to a tasting of current releases, samples of upcoming releases and in the process gave us his impressions of the tricky 2011 harvest.

Of the current offerings, my favorites was the 2010 Viognier with its honeysuckle and coconut aromas and flavor of apricot; it also offered a heavier mouth-feel thanks to barrel fermentation and aging in neutral French oak barrels for ten months. The 2010 Cabernet Franc was my favorite red with its aromas of violet and mixed red berries; it presented a spicy edge to boot! However, the 2009 Les Vent d’Anges Rives Red should not be ignored. Made from the Syrah grape, its smoky nose and dark fruit flavors should partner well with any thing that moos.

We were interested in 2011 wines, though, and Stephen was more than willing to oblige us with samples of current and upcoming releases from the vintage. Some are already in bottles. One version of a 2011 Rose was made from Cabernet Sauvignon and recalled fruity Spanish-style Roses with abundant red berry flavors. Another version that is now being poured in the tasting room is likewise dry but lighter with bright strawberry and melon flavors. Both presented a refreshing acidity. The 2011 Viognier Signature (which bears the signature of owner Al Schonberg) was similar to the 2010 Reserve; a well-balanced wine, tasters may think that it resembles Viognier produced from France. Rich yet fruity with some coconut aromas, I thought that it was delightful.

Stephen then treated us to several barrel samples. A couple of standouts here would include a big barrel of the 2011 Chardonnay. This was my favorite of the barrel samples. It was creamy, well rounded, and presented a nutty finish. Paul really enjoyed the sample from the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon in American oak. It was fruit forward, with notes of sweet tobacco, cherry and raspberry. This will probably be blended with a barrel of 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon in a French oak barrel. Another interesting barrel sample came from the 2011 Norton in new American oak. Paul is not a big fan of Norton but enjoyed the fruity nature of this wine. Blueberry really came through. With the chance to try these barrel samples, we can see there are some great wines to come from Keswick.

So what was Barnard’s take on the 2011 growing season? “I think it was a good thing for winemaking in Virginia. The 2011 wines will present more acidity and more finesse than what is evident in the 2010 wines.” Stephen’s comments seem to represent a trend in opinions from winemakers across the state. Was it a troublesome season? Yes. Will it be impossible to make quality wines? No. Much of this will have to do with vineyard location, of course. However, the winemaker’s diligence and skill will also play a role. We were very pleased with the 2011 samples that we tasted at Keswick Vineyards.

As we left Keswick Vineyards, we spied a Thomas Jefferson impersonator in period clothing and telltale red ponytail. We are sure that the original Mr. Jefferson would approve of the wines at Keswick Vineyards. Be sure to visit Keswick Vineyards, and remember to mention that you read about the wines at Virginia Wine Time.

Mind The Gap

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Yes, mind the wines at Chester Gap Cellars—they are quite good. We made a pre-spring break visit to the winery, and as always, Bernd Jung’s wines continue to impress.

Our tasting started with the two dry white wines, the stainless steel fermented 2009 Viognier and the creamier Viognier Reserve that is aged in oak barrels. Guess who preferred the oaked version? I did, of course. The eight months of aging in oak barrels imparted a weightier mouth feel while presenting peachy fruit characteristics. Paul goes for the crisper white wines that stainless steel fermentation tends to produce. I actually liked this one too with its intoxicating floral notes and, as Paul noted, “really peachy flavors.”

The red wines were likewise very solid. We both enjoyed the 2009 Merlot and appreciated its aromas of cherry, raspberry, dried herbs and sweet tobacco. We also noted similar fruit characteristics in the mouth, and Paul observed a “smooth finish.” Paul is the Merlot fan, and he jotted down, “daily sipper” on the tasting sheet. The 2009 Cabernet Franc proved to be a bit bolder but also well crafted with characteristic dark berry, eucalyptus and spice elements. However, the ultimate red wine had to be the young 2009 Vintners Red. Aged for 24 months in oak barrels and just bottled in February, this blend includes 53% Cabernet Franc, 27% Merlot, and 20% Petit Verdot. Earthy elements prevailed; however, swirling coaxed dark fruit and spicy aromas to appear. Buy now but drink later is my advice; in fact, I purchased a bottle for a future dinner that may feature leg of lamb!

Our tasting finished with the 2010 Petit Manseng. We are starting to hone our knowledge on this upcoming varietal in Virginia as it is appearing more frequently on tasting menus in the state. This one was presented as more of a dessert wine with residual sugar just under 6%. We also learned that Bernd Jung has planted Rousanne vines, and we were treated to a sneak pour of a newly bottled Rousanne. We’re not sure of Jung’s plans for the Rousanne grapes, but we intend to keep up with this development.

So as we tasted away at the tasting bar, Paul and I made note of the ever-present crack in the tasting room’s cement floor, and our tasting associates confirmed that indeed the crack had become a conversation piece as well as a permanent fixture. In fact, a future plan may be some sort of social media site entitled, “Mind the Gap.” We liked the idea as much as we enjoyed the wines. Paul and I shared a glass of the 2009 Merlot while enjoying a warm afternoon on the winery’s deck. Of course, we made sure to purchase some of our favorite wines. Plan a visit to Chester Gap Cellars, and be sure to mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you.

Women and Wine: Emily Pelton

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We continue with our Women and Wine series with a spotlight on Emily Pelton. Emily and her father, Andrew Hodson, are winemakers at Veritas Vineyards and Winery. Veritas Vineyards and Winery opened in the summer of 2002. Visitors are always impressed with the estate’s lovely grounds and facilities; however, it is the wines that impress judges and critics. In fact, the Veritas 2010 Vintner’s Reserve Meritage Blend won a gold medal at the 2012 Virginia Governor’s Cup. Click on the Women and Wine tab to read her answers.

I Tasted My Way Through the Wines of America

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Yes indeed I did! On March 12, I attended the Taste the Wines of America event sponsored by the National Association of American Wineries and the Winegrape Growers of America. The event was held in the evening at the Longworth Building near the Capitol building.

A warm winter’s evening allowed for the event to occur not only in the stately Congressional suite in the Longworth Building but also on the grand balcony which offers a spectacular view of the Capitol building’s dome. Seen between the bare branches of budding trees on a crystal clear night, the view could only be described as breathtaking. I met up with Frank Morgan of Drink What You Like, and with glasses in our hands, we literally tasted our way across America. Wine selection represented the west coast, Great Lakes, Midwest, New York, the Northeast, the Rocky Mountains, and the Southeast. Virginia was represented in the Southeast tasting, and wineries included the some of the state’s best—Barboursville Vineyards, Boxwood Estate, and Breaux Vineyards.

So what were my impressions? Virginia showed very well, of course. I was especially fond of the 2007 Topiary and enjoyed the 2010 Topiary Rose from Boxwood Winery. Rachel Martin and Kat were on hand to present the wines of the Southeast, and they were careful to give equal treatment to wines from Georgia, North Carolina, and Tennessee. The Petite Noir from Arrington Vineyards was interesting, and I will assume that Petite Noir is a hybrid grape. I certainly would need more experience with this varietal to offer further comment about it; however, I could see how its smoky nose and tart cranberry flavors might be favored by barbeque lovers of the Volunteer State.

My standout impressions of the evening were Oregon and Colorado. The Oregon table featured Pinot Noir, of course, and it was here that Frank and I strolled out onto the balcony to behold the majestic view as the sun began to set. Frank skillfully guided me through a tasting of Oregon Pinots, a particular favorite of his. We both concluded that the best of the selections that featured King Estate, Rex Hill, Sokol Blosser and Willamette Valley Vineyards was the Winderlea Vineyards 2009 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir. In Frank’s opinion it was “well integrated” with dark berry and spice characteristics. I simply agreed and asked for another splash from the server.

I was impressed, though, with the offerings fro Colorado; in particular, I enjoyed the white wines from Guy Grew Vineyards. This winery is located far away from Denver, but a trip to the Centennial State might have to include a visit to Guy Grew Vineyards. The 2009 Viognier was reminiscent of a fruity, peachy Virginia wine made from the same grape; I also thought that the dry Riesling was quite nice.

Other attendees included sommelier Andrew Stover of Vino50 Selections. If any person defines the word, “enthusiastic”, it is Andrew Stover. Andrew is usually seen wherever wines from off the beaten wine trails are being poured. I ran into Andrew at the Midwest table as he sipped his way through wines from Iowa, Missouri, Nebraska, and Texas. (I thought that the McPherson 2010 Reserve Rousanne had the best potential of the lot.) Be sure to checkout Stover’s Grape American Road Trip at www.vino50.com, to find out more about his promotion of American wines made by boutique-style producers.

There is no doubt that America’s other 46 are producing some quality wines. An event like this is an excellent way to taste these wines since they cannot be tasted at wine shops. I will say, though, that Virginia made me proud. Tired of the same old stuff from Napa? Plan a visit to a Virginia winery and try something local. Be sure to mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you.