Decisions, decisions. What wine to pour for Thanksgiving? Happy Thanksgiving!
Author: Warren and Paul
We Remember Carol Mercer Jensen
The Virginia wine blogging community lost a cherished member on Wednesday when Carol Mercer Jensen passed away due to cancer. Readers may know that Carol and her husband, Kurt, chronicled their passion for Virginia wine on their blog, Wine About Virginia. It was Virginia wine that introduced us to Carol and Kurt over 13 years ago after we had also started our own blog, Virginia Wine Time. in fact, the four of us and other Virginia wine blogging pioneers eventually earned the nickname, the Virginia Wine Mafia. I am not sure that we were really a mafia, but we all enjoyed getting together to share our experiences with Virginia wine.
Over the years, Paul and I developed a friendship with Carol and Kurt. Carol was thoughtful and generous with an easy sense of humor. She was an adored wife and a beloved mother of two daughters, Laura and Diana. To us, Carol was a warm-hearted friend, and we will miss her terribly.
Paul and I extend our deepest sympathies to Kurt Jensen and his daughters Laura Brown and Diana Robbins.
Nebbiolo Through the Years at Breaux Vineyards
Nebbiolo is a grape variety that oenophiles would associate with Italy; however, there are a few wineries in Virginia that are able to grow the grape in their vineyards. Breaux Vineyards is one of them. In fact, it was owner Paul Breaux who fell in love with Nebbiolo while visiting Italy in the late 1990s and decided to try growing it in his own vineyard. It has since proven to be Breaux’s flagship red wine with excellent vintages on display at a recent vertical tasting.
The 2005 vintage was the eldest statesman at the event with the 2016 bottling debuting as the youngster. In between the two, the 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014 and 2015 were poured for comparison. Vintages are paired together and then partnered with three courses prepared by Grandale Restaurant and Catering. So what were our favorites?
First Course and Pairing:
Chicken, spinach, and prosciutto Napoleon with Bechamel Sauce paired with the 2005 and 2012 vintages.
This course proved that chicken can be matched with red wine. The 05 vintage was the winner at our table and presented the raisiny fruit profile associated with an aging red wine. I noted clover and earthy aromas too. However, the fruitier ’12 vintage with its brighter red berry notes was my own personal favorite.
Second Course and Pairing:
Braised pork shank over leek and truffle risotto paired with the 2014 and 2015 vintages.
This was my favorite course. The pork shank was braised to perfection with truffle risotto providing an earthier flavor to the dish; this matched quite well with the ’15 vintage and its dark fruit notes and subtle whiff of violet on the nose. For readers with a bottle of the ’14 vintage rest assured that it can stay a while longer on the wine rack. Tannins on this one are still firm. Decant if you insist on enjoying it now.
Third Course and Pairing:
Cheesy polenta cake with bolognese sauce and shaved pecorino Romano cheese with snow pea tendrils paired with the 2010 and 2016 vintages.
This was Paul’s favorite course—-the polenta cake was an excellent alternative to pasta with the bolognese sauce. The pairing also offered a contrast in winemaking styles. The 2010 shared a profile that was similar to the 2005, and both were products of longer oak aging. The 2016, though, presented the vision of current winemaker, Josh Gerard. Gerard favors less oak aging but longer bottle aging in order to showcase Nebbiolo’s lush aromatics. Though young, the ’16 presented rich berry notes that extended through the finish. The ’16 has not been released yet; however, it already shows potential.
Lagniappe (or bonus for those who are not from New Orleans):
Smoked chestnut and wine berry tossed in cocoa paired with the 2013 vintage
The ’13 was an easy sipper and a nice partner with the cocoa powder. Softer fruit notes and tannins with this one.
The Nebbiolo vertical allowed us to taste many of the vintages that we have on our own wine rack, and we determined that ’05 and ’10 vintages should be enjoyed now. ’14 and ’15 can rest while longer; ’12 and ’13 can be enjoyed now or held a bit longer. Be sure to visit Breaux Vineyards to either add to or begin your own collection of Nebbiolo, but mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!
Under a Starlit Sky
We were invited to attend a soft opening of another new Virginia winery aptly named Star in the Valley. We can say that the new tasting room offers a stunning view of the Virginia skyline which was aglow with stars on the night of the opening. A starlight backdrop accented the wall behind the tasting bar, and the winery’s name, Star In The Valley, seemed fitting.
The winery currently has eight acres of property planted in vines with varietals that include Chardonel, a hybrid that mimics the Chardonnay profile, Vidal Blanc, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Star In The Valley now produces 400 cases of wines and can safely be classified as a small producer of wine.
We were treated to a tasting of the 2018 Field Star White, a Chardonel that was co-fermented with Chardonnay and then aged five months in neutral oak barrels, the 2018 Chardonel that was also co-fermented with Chardonnay but aged five months in new Hungarian oak barrels. Red wine offerings included the 2018 Cabernet Franc, and the 2018 Field Star Red, a blend of Cabernet Franc and Chambourcin.
After our tasting, we enjoyed light fare that included cheeses, prosciutto, olives, and canapés. Readers who wish to experience a new winery under the stars should consider Star in the Valley Winery. Mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you.