Thumbs Up For Grapeseed


Wine bars have become all the rage, and one of the most popular is Grapeseed in Bethesda. Grapeseed recently earned rave reviews in Washingtonian magazine, and we decided to find out what the buzz was all about. On a recent lovely spring evening, we reserved a table at this unique bistro, and the menu describes the Grapeseed experience in this way:

“At Grapeseed we develop each dish to match a specific wine. We pick out the nuances of each wine and create a dish that highlights those characteristics. Sample various dishes and wines to see if you agree with our matches. Have fun and enjoy!”

And that is just what we did.

Diners at Grapeseed have several options. One option is to enjoy a true wine bar experience at the bistro’s bar. Unique wines from around the world are offered and can be enjoyed with or without food. Another option is to dine at the Chef’s table; here, diners enjoy the Chef’s specialties paired with wines. This is a preselected menu and can be enjoyed with a prior reservation and for a set price. We opted for selection number three: a menu that included options for first, middle, and main courses with each selection paired with a particular wine. For the first course, Paul selected the Tilapia with Jasmine Rice and Thai Green Curry Vinaigrette. This one was paired with a Shinas Estate Viognier from Australia. However, Warren chose the Fricassee of Wild Mushrooms with Sherry Vinegar and Truffled Polenta, and his appetizer was paired with Le Filigare Chianti Classico from Italy.

And what about our main courses? Paul decided on the Pan Roasted Breast of Chicken with Chicken Shepard’s Pie, Moniato, Poblano Pepper, and Black Bean Broth. This was paired with the Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos from Portugal. Warren went with the Pan Seared Scallops with Sherry Roasted Root Vegetables, bacon, and Green Onion Soubise paired with the Adelshiem Chardonnay from Oregon. So what did we think? Read on to find out!

The food was delicious and the wine pairings were perfect. The tilapia was crisp and flaky, and the curry vinaigrettte provided a spicy edge that did not overpower the fish. The Shinas Estate Viognier was simply divine and received the gold star for the evening. Floral notes with light peach and honeysuckle flavors provided a subtle complexity; it was clean and more crisp than expected from a Viognier and provided a coolness to the spicier seafood dish. Not to be outdone was the wild mushroom dish. This was rich and rustic, and the Chianti was a classic match. Rich in violet aromas, it presented a complex mix of leather, licorice and cherry on the palate. Another gold star went next to this one!

The main courses arrived and these were as stunning as the appetizers. Paul’s Chicken Shepard’s Pie was an artistic creation and topped with white sweet potatoes, and the unique Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos from Portugal was a lighter bodied red with brighter red fruit characteristics. Accessible and easy to drink, Paul thought it a match for chicken. And who thought red wine paired with chicken? Anyway, Warren’s main dish was equally captivating, and the Adelshiem Chardonnay from Oregon seemed to be the perfect answer for the dish’s mix of root vegetables, shellfish and bacon. This chardonnay was clean and crisp without the buttery/nutty finish of heavily oaked chardonnays. Prevalent here was a marriage of apple and hints of citrus with enough body to tackle the variety of offerings on the plate. Even Paul, the anti-chardonnay crusader, enjoyed a few sips of this one.

By this point, we were stuffed; however we did make room to finish the evening with a glass of Prosecco. Throughout the evening, we were treated to excellent service from our waiter, Keith. Paul can be a rather picky eater, and Keith guided Paul through the menu and accommodated his wishes with a wonderful sense of humor that put him at ease. We plan to return to Grapeseed soon; in the meantime, make a reservation at Grapeseed, and mention that Virginia Wine Time sent you!